Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I agree with Jack, the numbers are a bit low and may or may not come up a bit with the engine back in service. But the 2nd test after some squirts of oil may be a bit misleading. If more oil was added than could pass by the rings in a couple of strokes, the excess would occupy volume in the combustion chamber and thus raise the compression pressure. Thus all of that differential between the two readings may not be (and probably isn't) entirely indicative of the ring condition. Depends a bit on how big a "squirt" is. I'd be more concerned with the condition of the lower end.

My own opinion, if the rest of the engine is sound and doing a full rebuild isn't in your plans or wallet at this time, there's nothing in those compression values that would prevent you from having some thousands of miles of enjoyment while you save up for a rebuild later.

May not be rings or rings alone. Valves mite need touching up or regrind.

This is a difficult judgement call. It's up to your personal situation and expected future demand.

If u do pull the pistons pay close attention to the TOP most ring of each piston!!!! Determine if it is installed upside down or not. Compression ring(s) installed upside down will cause oil consumption and smoke at the rear pipe.

Keep us posted on your findings.

BTW. On the valve seals:
Do NOT use the ford umbrella type that are smaller diamter than the OEM Packard. ANY cross fit valve seal should be large enuf so as not to get stuck over the OD of the valve guide. If that happens it will starve the stem for oil and sieze the valve in the guide.

What knid of performance and oil consumption did u experience wit h the engine when it was running or was it so little operation so as not to be able to make such judgement????

Do the rocker ARMS have a hole completely thru the push rod socket end of rocker arm?????

Quote:

I didn't run the engine enough to monitor oil consumption between changes, but the little I did run it didn't have any glaring issues.

Quote:

No, the arms don't have holes all the way through. Looks like the oil just leaks out instead of squirting everywhere.

FWIW, I've got an extra set of valve stem seals from a new gasket set. PM me and I'll make you a special PckardInfo.com deal.

jack vines

Quote:

PM Sent

Removed the pan and got the motor rolled over on the engine stand. I snapped some pictures of the oil pump. You guys can tell me what I've got here.

The pump has the number 440662 cast on it if that means much.

The pan had some expected sludge in the bottom and I didn't find any large chunks of iron thankfully. I did find tiny rocks and such. This oil pan has been through some abuse. They obviously hit something with it. Added a skid plate and brazed in a new drain plug. It was holding oil without signs of leaks, so at least the repairs seem successful.

Tomorrow I plan to get some plastiguage and check a couple main bearings.

Attach file:

---

  (112.42 KB)


  (123.99 KB)


  (129.28 KB)


  (130.77 KB)


  (149.71 KB)

The pump is ez to remove. Check to see if there is a gasket between flange of pump and rear main bearing cap.

THe pump needs to be checked for wear Where the shaft enters the pump. IIRC manual indicates .004" max wear but that's probably very liberal as in maybe too liberal for (in my opinion) this poorly designed pump set up.

**** Check dip stick to float interference!!!! ********

Based on the pic u posted th sludge does not appear to be excessive but need to clean it out anyway of course.

If u decide to disassemble the pump we'll try to analyze it here. Otherwise be sure to check for the slop in the input shaft as i indicted above.

How many miles does this engine have on it????

Depending on the condition of the pump it mite be prudent to consider the Olds oil pump conversion kit. I'm using the Olds conversion on my very low mileage very original (when i got it) 56 Executive.

Quote:

Supposedly, the car has around 45k miles. Seems likely, but I can't be 100% sure. I will be doing some serious thinking (possibly drinking) about the Olds kit in the very near future.

What's the best way to check the dip stick interference?

Keegan, experiences with the Packard V8 vary considerably, some having problems at relatively low mileages and others running happily along to 100,000 miles or more with no significant problems. Why the differences has been subject to lots of speculation, on this forum and elsewhere.

My own 56 now has about 94,000 miles, excellent compression and superb oil pressure, burns no oil, and to my knowledge has never been apart for service and thus still has the original oil pump and internal parts. I did pull some main and rod caps at about 79,000 and found nothing of concern. My only reason for pointing this out is that if your lower end checks out OK, even with those compression values your engine may be serviceable for many thousands more miles without problems. The results of your Plastigage readings on the bearings/journals will go a long way to determining whether you should rebuild now or not.