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Just noticed that my picture didn't upload, so I guess no one else understood my last post. This should help.

Finally have a few days off, and I'm mostly helping my wife and bonding with my son, but I have been doing a little bit of research. Not too much luck finding parts, but that's ok, because the guy I would ask to pick them up for me is pretty busy this time of year. I should be back CONUS about two and a half years, so I have plenty of time.

I did buy some books on Amazon the other day though, so I'll spend some time learning more about the history of Packard.

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Congratulations Dad!

This post is almost a year overdue, but that's ok. Life is busy sometimes. I was able to take some leave last June and get back to Idaho, and I pulled the Packard out of the barn. She started without jumping starting after sitting alone for 8 months. I primed the carb, and then as soon as I got it down the hill, shut it off and added water, because I didn't check it before I started it and it turns out I had a cold leak. I didn't check things too throughly before trying to start it because, well, I didn't expect it to just start!

We drove it around a little- probably 15 miles or so, and I got to give my son his first ride in a Packard! Mom wasn't so sure (no carseat or seatbelt), but we took it slow and he had a ball.

Headed back to the mainland in a few months for at least two years, and I'm starting to have the time to scheme about what to do next.

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Nice when they start after a long time in the garage, wish mine would..lol..Call me when you get to Idaho again for a little show and tell or something...208 245 4570 Thanks again for your service in the Navy...Bob

Well, I finally have orders in hand, and it looks like I'm going to be living in Northern VA for three years. I'll get some time off this summer, and then drive across the country at the beginning of August. Looking forward to it, and now I just have to find a house with a garage and patient landlords!

Still looking for a set of front fenders...

Ken,

The seller of this eBay listing for 37 rocker panels also says he has 120 front fenders!

To those in the know: good price? It seems reasonable to me, and it would save me a ton of labor.

The rocker panels look a little bit pricey, but I don't know of anyone reproducing the early model ones. You can get 51-54 inner and outer panels for about $25 each, but they are not exact copies, and take a little bit of adjusting to make them fit. Having said that, having a factory part in good shape is money well spent. Fabricating something that complicated will eat up a lot of time. I'd go for it, and maybe you can get a special deal on the fenders. Plus he's in Fort Collins Co - you could drop south on your way back and pick them up!

Go Navy! Three years as a communications/crypto guy, then 21 as a CEC officer. Finally figured out my body doesn't like large bodies of water....

Well, it has been a very long time since I've updated, and a few things have happened:

- We are all set up in Saratoga Springs, NY.

- I have the car in the garage, and the garage all set up.

- Planning on sending a Carter WA-1 to Daytona carb for rebuild/restoration. Before I do- is this the correct carb? I know Chandler Groves was the original carb, but I also have heard that they are not worth using. I thought it was correct when I got it three years ago, but now I can't find the documentation. I'll get back into practice later.

- Front end is removed. I have to fix the engine paint- a few cold water leaks caused some peeling paint while it was in the barn. I hate re-work, but so it goes.

- Plan for the the winter is to restore all the bits that I ran out of time last time I was on shore duty- generator, finish the starter, air filter, etc. etc.

- Also need to flip the ring gear and planning on getting a new clutch or get mine rebuilt.

EDIT: Disregard about the carb. I searched harder, and answered my own question. The Carter WA-1 477S is the correct carb- now I just have to send it off to Daytona.

- Buying a welder this weekend, so I'll be able to start stitching metal together.

Pictures to follow. I have a rather huge list of things to do before bodywork, and then I'll tackle body work. Working into the hard stuff.

It has been a while since I've posted.

Hauled the car from Idaho to Saratoga Springs, NY.

I've gotten the front end off, and started stripping down the car. I want to get the mechanical stuff 100%, and then I'll move into body work.

The car smoked quite a bit, so I pulled the head for an inspection. Compression numbers were good a few years ago, but I want the car to not smoke, and now is the right time to go through it. I am planning on doing an in-car overhaul. There is a crack between 5 and 6 on the drivers side of the block, so I don't want to put money into machine work, thus not planning a full rebuild. My plan:

0. Epoxy repair the crack. I am thinking JB weld. It leaks cold, no leaks hot.
1. New rings
2. Inspect bearings and replace if required
3. Clean pistons and valves
4. Valve grind. I think I can do it myself, in car, based on some posts I read on the forum.
4.5. Inspect valve guides to see if a worn valve guide is the cause of my smoke. I don't have enough run hours to reasonably discuss oil level changes.
5. New timing chain?

Is there a way to tell if the pistons are stock other than measuring? They appear to be stamped 9 3 on top, but it's hard to tell, since I haven't cleaned them off yet.

Open to suggestions or better ideas from people who have done this before. I haven't done a full restoration before.

I also found a new crack in the exhaust manifold. I had a previous crack welded up, and it is now cracked next to the old crack. Should I look for a new manifold, or do they all crack there? My concern is that the engine only has a few hours of run time since the manifold was repaired before. I am also going to have to find different manifold paint. I put several coats of Hirsch paint on it 3 years ago, and you can see in the pictures how poorly the paint fared. How do the pros do it?

Once all of that is done, I'll restore all the ancillary parts as I reassemble- distributor, generator, water pump, etc. The water pump leaked slightly, so I will rebuild it. The starter is done, but I may touch it up.

I also need to repaint the block. I hate rework. You can see in the pictures where the paint peeled off. I've never had anti-freeze eat paint. For prep, I wire wheeled the engine to bare metal, degreased it, and painted it. Does the Hirsch engine paint need a primer? It didn't mention that on the can or in the instructions.

Then I have to fix leaking brakes. The brand new three years ago master cylinder leaks like a sieve, so I guess I will have to rebuild it. A few of my new brake lines are leaking too. The flares looked fine, and the wheel cylinders are new. I am wondering if I just didn't tighten them enough to crush a little between the flared line and the fitting. I was afraid of over-tightening, but I'm wondering if I limp-wristed it. Thoughts?

Much work, but it's fun. I will probably be a little less excited when it is February in my uninsulated garage!

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