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Got gasket kit and valve from Kanters. Now to wait for the
installation.

AND THE HITS JUST KEEP COMING.

Had the valve installed and got the engine cranked over and a valve on the other side let loose. Took the old push rod which now looks like a lazy 'S' and the lifter to an expert machine shop and the expert opinion of 3 engine rebuilders is I have a very bad cam shaft. So this car is going into the shop for the next couple years and get and engine swap along with painting the engine bay. I have a complete engine, but also access to a rebuilt 374. So I will have to decide which to use.

If ur pulling anyways... Just rebuild the engine you have now. Would be less I would think. Send the cam to Jack Vines for a regrind.

There was a running change made to replace the intake valve spring retainers with an improved (nitrate-hardened) design, try to find a set (P/N 6492077) if you don't already have them. They are around, I just picked up a set for an eventual engine rebuild.

The changeover Utica engine numbers were:

A-14403
AA-1597
B-7056
C-1532
D-7719

A few more details on this can be found in the Service Counselors.

You can check the retainers with a file. The older ones will mark easily with a file on the outer edge. The nitrate-hardened ones will not.

A bit off topic, but occasionally the question is asked how many 56 Packards were built with standard shift. Just reflecting on those changeover Utica numbers in post #324 above, one might project that about 10% of the base-model Clippers had standard shift. Interesting that no BBs were indicated - perhaps none were built? IIRC there was no engine build code assigned for C or D series engines with flywheel, only for Twin Ultramatic.

Well I am trying to decide what to do. I have different ways to go, it's just a case of choosing a path and moving forward with it. As soon as I can I will post a picture of what took place.

Not sure why all the talk about valve retainers.

The first sign of trouble was that your engine locked as the crank was turned by hand. At that time, I suspected a dropped valve was obstructing piston travel. However, inspection with valve covers removed showed no evidence of that. Subsequent removal of heads revealed a bent valve.

Now, you report that another "valve let loose" and that the push rod is bent.

In lieu of additional details, I'm thinking that a piston hit a valve, but suspect the valve was opened by the cam - not because it dropped. As such, I have to wonder if the cam timing is off - perhaps timing chain is slack or jumped a tooth. Although there may be damage to the corresponding lifter and cam lobe, they were likely on the receiving end - collateral damage.

Personally, I wouldn't replace this (352) motor with a 374 mill. Not sure which carbs you have but they would need to be rejetted, at the very least. I suspect the distributor would also need to be brought up to 5688 specs - recurved or replaced.

It would be far easier to stick with a 352. Yet, how sure are you of the quality/condition of parts and build of another engine?

If it were my car, I'd want the engine that came with the car rebuilt (if possible), but it's your car and your decision.

I'll have to agrre with BH. However, if the cam is broken into two pieces then that could cause the damage Al describes.

BH + Keith.

What you guys are saying is very plausible and makes sense and it opens up another possibility. When the shop yanks the engine in order to paint the engine bay(which they would have to do whether to rebuild it or swap the engine, I could send it down to the engine machine shop and have them tear it apart and tell me what the condition of everything is and then I could decide whether to rebuild it or go with another engine. Just to tear it down to inspect it should not run me to much to start($250 according to the shop this morning), the costs won't start to climb until I decide to go thru the whole rebuild process.

Thanks guys.

ALK

Here is what I am talking about:

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