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I still haven't cut the steel line that I bought from NAPA but I saw on TV a short section about the cupro-nickel line (brake line) needing a 32deg double flares and special fittings, but looked easy to work with (famous last words, right). I suuuck at flaring steel tubing so I guess I'll give it a try (what could go wrong?)

Not sure the gas line would need special fittings or flares -- at least not 32 degrees. The flares would have to match the existing tank and flex line which I believe is standard 45 degree.

TO flare the tubing:
Cut tube with a tubing cutter, not a hack saw unless u are dmaned good at making a precision square cut.

Use a FILE to remove burr from INSIDE of tubing. Do not rely on the reamer of the cutting tool. Use a small sharp scriber to peck at the ID of the tube to make sure no bur is ANYWHERE at any point in the ID of the tube.

File the end of tube flat, NO sharp edge at end of tube.

IMPORTANT:
use a file to champfer the OUTER diamenter end of the tube about 1/64 to maybe 1/32" wide champfer.

Repeat all above steps one more time to insure no burs nor sharp edges.

Bottom line: The cut end of the tube must be like a machined cylinder with only a slight hand filed champfer on the OD. NO BURRS!!!!! NO rolled up edges or rolled in edges of metal!!!

Apply a LIGHT FILM of grease to end of tube and flaring tool details.

DO not rush the flaring process. try to look at the tool as it enters the tube. square up the tool a little bit if it appeas to be a little off center.

Some tubing flares easier and better than other tubing. Like everything else it depends on the quality of the tubing.

Placing tube in flaring holder:
Follow instructions of flaring tool. HOWEVER i have found that is many cases i have to clamp the tube slightly lower in the tool than instructions claim. MEaning less tube is sticking out above the holder than instructuons claim to use.

MY success rate is about 80%. Maybe 1 out of 5 flares will get a little cock-eyed. Alot of failure has to do with variations in tubing quality and/or not centering parts of the flaring tool before force is applied..

PV8, thanks for the hot tips, I'll persist until I get the job done right, thanks to your help. I wish my eyesight was better but I've learned to be patient with all things. I also have cerebral palsy and can sometimes mess up royally. I'm not much fun to look at, just don't point and laugh at the same time

For bends that must be of such a short length that cannot be bent with the flare in place, make the bend then flare the end.

I too have problems making good double inverted flares. Packard V8's advice is good, especially about using a bit of grease. Thanks, Keith.

(o{}o)

A couple of side notes on the use of grease:

Use only a LIGHT FILM of grease on the tube and end of tool that enters the tube. Don't try to load it up like wheel bearing. The threads on the flaring tool and the little plumb bob shaped driving end need some grease to lube them as thye are moving parts of the tool itself.

Mite try one without using grease on the work itself if problems arise.

In the case of brake lines i still use the grease contrary to popular belief. BUT ONLY A LITE FILM of grease to avoid getting any significant amount into the line.

I would not use any grease on the final assembly of the lines to the vehicle. Never tried it tho and see no reason to try it.

If necessary use a magnifying glass to inspect the final flare. Look for splits in the internal rolled down lip of the flare. Splits can occur.

If excessive problem persists when flaring then try a different brand of tubeing.

WHat brand of flaring tool are any of u that are having problems using????? I have a Bonney. If u're trying to use a HArbour Fright or similar such tool that mite be a problem, IDK. Most of HF's hand tools i've used are pretty good for lite duty occasional home type work. HOWEVER, any gauging or measurements recommended in instructions or marked on the tool itself are often way off base for even just fair-to-midland ball park results.

JW wrote:

Quote:
You might not have to resort to that if you invest in a handy tool like Eastwood's Brake Line Forming Tool, #49074, which handles both 3/16" and 1/4" tubing. Their price - even when not on sale - is a good bit less than the $35-40 I was quoted from a tool truck jobber, a few years ago, for a nearly identical tool.

Of course, it should come as no surprise that Harbor Freight now has a knock off of these tube bending pliers under their Pittsburgh brand, #95782.

Lisle offers a tool similar to those above, #44150, but it only handles 3/16" tubing. They also have another style, #44070, where the jaws are parallel to the handles - a bit easier on the wrist, but only for 1/4" tubing.

However, these examples are all sized for brake lines. I'm not sure if similar tools are available for other sizes used for fuel lines - like 5/16" and 3/8".

Last but not least, beware of vendors offering these very same items on fleaBay, but with jacked-upped prices.

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Brian, I have never seen a tubing bending tool like you posted. One could certainly make some short length bends with it.

(o{}o)