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Henry,

Maybe it's been mentioned before, but cars are going for quite big bucks these days if they look like original "barn finds" rather than restorations. It's the new wave of collectible cars, I guess. Just thought I'd mention that you might be adding more value (as well as having fun) by preserving rather than restoring the body. You'll have them all be panting at the auction houses!

the good news, i'm not doing it for that. i'm doing it cause I know i'll love it. so, technically...its gonna be priceless.....well unless I can't feed my kid...then it has a price.

decided while the BLO is drying on the back of the trunk lid and the water is drying on the door panel after washing it...I would rotate and start on the body.

cut out the rot and decided that since I had success recreating the dull faded black paint on the trunk I would go ahead and replace the rocker panel.

any suggestions or advice before I continue my line down the top of the rocker?

thanks guys.

Hank

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There's an outer and an inner rocker panel, and when mine were replaced the MetalGuy drilled out the spot welds where the panels joined the floor pan. From memory there's a triple thickness of metal sheet there. When that was done it was noticed there was quite a lot of rust in the inner panel as well, so he fabricated both inner and outer replacements. Having taken the panels off this way seemed a good easy way when both inners and outers needed to be replaced.

I see Kanter has replacement sets around $180 if you wanted to go that way. Making your own, the folds are easily done but getting the curve right is harder and might require a metal shop to do it.

Take care that the radius of curve on outer rocker panel matches the curve on the lower part of front guard. Test fit the door(s) for clearance before welding it all together.

BTW, where can I get a great little helper like the one you've got? All mine have grown up and left home!

Where exactly is that hole?

front of passengers lower rocker....its actually hidden behind the front fender when mounted.

I have the inner and outer panel from C2C fabrications.

I plan to cut along the edge where the rocker meets the floor, right before the little holes for the kick panel to screw to.

I will cut the new panel the same and butt weld it in place. I have butt weld holders.

the hardest part will be forming the metal for that hole, but my dolly set should make easy work of that and it doesn't have to be 100% perfect as it will be hidden by the fender for the most part.

my kiddo is a pretty good helper. he helped me build a new little gate/fence for my back bay of my 3rd car garage. this allows me to open the back door and the dogs wont beable to get into the garage....but I still get the massive wind tunnel that blows through the garage. and if I need to drive through the 3rd bay with backyard supplies or whatever sort...it swings open like a gate ;0) very nice.

suspended the door...sprayed it all down with linseed. drying now.

next will be applying the herculiner to the underside of the trunk where i scrapped off the old stuff.

then rotate to the rocker again.

here is a pic of the fence/gate me and my son built.

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Herculiner went on last night. stuck very very well to the linseed oil, no problems.

i think it replicated the texture of the original pretty damn well.

Hank

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I like it.

Hank, nice texture and look. Should help with noise. It may work for the surface areas of the trunk as well, even though they were originally finished with fabric mats and cardboard panels. I am sure others here are thinking about using your idea. Keep the updates coming.

(o{}o)

thanks JW. I plan to apply this product to the entire floor of the car, including trunk.

also have a good mind to apply it to the undercarriage of the body. linseed....then this....good luck rust...i'd like to see you try.

it will also go in the door shells as well.