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Anyone care to speculate how much difference there is between a 20-21st series Clipper and 22-23 series trunk floor. C2C has a repro floor for 22-23 series which I think might work on a 21st. They specifically say 48-50 for that piece though. Other pieces which are similar between series such as front and rear floor parts are labeled to include 41-47 Clippers as well as the 48-50 models. Am I missing something so obviously different that the 48-50 piece wouldn't work on a 21st?

If the pan is changed and entire trunk including floor is coated in POR15, any idea how the flocking adhesive would hold onto the POR. Would that open up a whole new can of problems that carpet would be the only option.

I believe that the 21st Series trunk pan is the same as the 22nd & 23rd since the basic inner body has the same structure.

Here are some photos of a 22nd Series trunk floor pan that might be useful for comparison.

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Howard, is your Clipper a Super or Custom? If a Custom, then the trunk area is carpeted, not flocked.

(o{}o)

Thanks for photos. I sure don't see much difference in pans between series so if absolutely need be I'll go with the repro.

Spent the last hour looking at the trunk some more and no longer convinced a complete pan is the way to go. Have holes thru at the rear where the body panel below lid is rusted out. Some around the gas filler area. Otherwise, looks to be very pitted on top, smooth and only surface rust on bottom. Not rusted thru anywhere else but undoubtedly thin in spots. Repro pan doesn't look like it has the panel flange at the rear like the original does. That's mostly where I need repair so unless something much worse shows up, changing the complete pan and making that fit without having the flange included may be overkill and more trouble than it's worth..

JW, It is a Custom but the sides of the trunk and wheelwells are flocked aren't they? Didn't find any remnants of carpet for the sides but have what I think is petrified remains of flock. Is your car original with carpet on the sides? I had thought of coating the entire trunk with POR and then re-flock everything. Carpet can lay over flock on the floor. Just concerned the flock cement won't stick to POR very long and the sides would have to be carpeted to hide the falling flock. If it's carpet then sure no need for flock aggravation.

Howard,
You might investigate POR-15's product "Tie Coat". No personal experience, but it is supposed to prime POR-15 for other coatings. Based on the quality of their products, I would be inclined to try it.
Mark

That "Tie Coat" product looks interesting. Says any paint can go over it. Since the flock adhesive is essentially paint, think I will give it a try -- if it turns out the flock was used in a Custom. Still have to nail that one down.

There is an "insulation, floor" and the same item is used in all 21st 47 models. A different number for all models of 46 21st series which may be a different color. Somewhat confusing with what they call lining and insulation but haven't found a specific mention of carpet yet. Some prewar models have a wheelhouse lining but not postwar. Confusion abounds.

Thanks for the enlightenment on the "Tie Coat".

Ironically, while POR-15 does not like to stick to shiny surfaces (including new metal), it cures to a glass-like surface to which nothing else seems to stick well - at least, not without additional, special preparation.

Originally, the supplier suggested that a mist coat of conventionl primer could be applied while POR-15 was still 'tacky' - that is (in their words), dry to the touch, but with a slight finger drag. However, due to a bad in the application of a mist coat urethane-based primer, I've been looking into use of their own primers.

While both their Tie-Coat and Self-Etching primers can be applied over fully-cured POR-15, Tie-Coat is a high-build product (like conventional autobody primer, and sandable), which might not be necessary in this case. In contrast, their Self-Etching primer is also available in aerosol form, cures in only 30 minutes (ready for topcating), and does not require sanding - hence, might be more appropriate. I have no idea how this compares to other sef-etching primers, but personally, I would prefer err on the side of caution and use the proprietary product over POR-15.

Might be best to call the supplier's help line, and provide details on the adhesive product to be used with the flocking, to be sure you will have the best result.

I bought a 48-50 C2C trunk pan ($100) and it's from the spare well forward only. Stock has a deep bead roll where this one starts. The body mount areas are a bit shallow compared to stock, but that can be easily remedied. There's plenty of extra length for fit up. Someone else posted his pix of this repair a few months back.

Howard - Here is a photo of the trunk area of my 47 Custom sedan. I believe it to be the original trim, and it is fully carpeted. Most attractive trunk.

(o{}o)

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Thanks, John. I didn't find any pieces of carpet except what appeared to be a mat in the center. I guess whatever was there bit the dust long before I got the car. Your carpet does look original and nice and probably the way to go to avoid the flock mess. Looks like it will be POR 15 only.

I saw where POR has a reinforcement system with a fiberglass or similar like mat to be embedded in the material. Might be an interesting solution for the thin floor metal that doesn't have thru holes or really need replacing.. Wonder how POR compares with fiberglass or epoxy as far as structural strength.