Packard Forum Index » General

Domelight switch repair.

I was working on my 39 120 yesterday, trying to get the interior door light to work. There is a switch in the B pillar on the passenger's side, and I suspected mine was bad. So I removed it and tested it with a multimeter, and sure enough it was bad. The good news is that you can take it apart using a small flat blade screwdriver and some needle nose pliers. The interior consists of a brass plate with two raised dimples, a spring that fits into the on-off button, and two brass rings on the back side of the fiber plate that are connected to the posts. Once apart, I cleaned and buffed the brass plate and the rings and then reassembled it. Note that the fiber plate can be put on two different ways. The correct way will have the on-off knob between the connector posts. This way when the knob is in the on position, a white dimple (sometimes the white paint is missing) is visible. Test it with your meter, if there is no circuit, you've put it on backwards. My 51 has the same switch, but I don't know about the 12 volt versions. I have two switches, one is the one pictured with the posts and screws, and another one with bullet connectors. The second one came from a 50 Packard.

I also found that the bullet version is easier to install without causing short circuits. On either model, be sure to wrap some electrician's tape around the connectors. It is probably advisable to disconnect the battery while you install the switch. And now I have a working dome light!

The dime in the photo is for scale.

Attach file:

---

  (29.27 KB)


  (20.80 KB)

I too, am working on my dome light and the reading lights in my 48. I removed the dome light cover and replaced the bulb. The light came on, but will not go out when the door is closed. The switch on the pillar was covered over by new upholstery. So, either the switch is in the on position , or is shorted. Is the switch pictured the same as mine, and how far up on the pillar is it mounted. Thanks

I have repaired some of the switches in my 54 and here is what I have learned.

The little Door Pillar slide switch has one pole connected to ground (car metal body) and the tabs that keep the switch together are bent such that they touch the brass part of the switch.

This gets Corroded so I put a drop of solder on the ground connection to improve the connection after taking the switch apart and polishing the brass.

I run these kinds of parts through an ultrasonic cleaner. I only unbend the tabs far enough to get it apart as you only get a couple of unbend/bend chances.

Pay attention to whether the little white dot is showing when the switch is on or off so you can put it back the same way.

I use shrink tubing to insulate wires not tape.

The door switches pop out and can be cleaned easily as well.

Jim

Nice work, David. I have accomplished similar repair on those switches in my 55/56 sedans.

I also sanded (1200-grit) the top of the phenolic board as it seemd to have swollen - keeping the sliding brass contact from touching the fixed cotnacts in the board.

I didn't know about the white dot and its orientation - gonna have to go back and make 'em right, someday.

Brian, if your light comes on, the white button is in the correct position. It won't work if you put it in backwards.

As to the 48 model, the switch is located on the passenger door, about where your shoulder would be. I'd try running your fingers over the upholstery (wash your hands first - just like Mom told us). You should be able to feel a void where the switch is placed. The bad news is that you have to remove at least the upholstery on the door pillar to get to the wires. But you might get lucky and find that they just left them dangling. If some of you 48-50 guys have a car that is down for repairs, maybe they can give you a dimension from the floor.

Jim, the tape was on the bullet connectors as it came from the factory. I agree the more permanent solution is the heat shrink tubing.

Thanks for the clarification.

I seem to recall that I might have assembled it backward in my first attempt, but from that experience, I learned to pay attention to the orientation of sliding contact, and it always worked.

However, that was many years ago, and I just don't recall the white dot. I may have to disassemble, or just remove the switch(es), just to repaint that nice little detail.

I rebuilt one of my courtesy lights ( and will probably do the other one) . The repair part is available from Auto Zone. The part is Dorman # 85801 - Double Contact Pigtail. It looks identical to the original and replaces the old worn out wiring in the light housing.

Dome light switch - Which is ON position - up or down ? Thanks

David Grubbs - I suspect the switch is still there- just covered over. Does the upholstery on the door pillar just pull off ?

Don't mean to hijack David's thread but I might have some photos to help the question. Not sure if all years are the same but believe the 21-23 series are.

If so, the upholstery is glued over padding to a hardboard panel. That is held on by some nail like affairs which fit into retainers on door pillar. If you are going to try and remove the panel, those nails and retainers have a tenacious hold. Be very gentle and locate the "nails" exactly when prying off. I used a wide flat pry bar but had some issues. If you pry in between them, the panel can break and since the hardboard is old and brittle, if you are not right next to them they easily pull thru the panel as evidenced on one of these.

The "nails" are located about 5" apart and down the center of the panel. The upholstery at the top is tacked under the headlining and at the bottom, secured lightly. Bottom is not bad but to remove completely, the entire panel will not come free without a lot of work at the top.

This is a 47 and door switch is on drivers side. Switch is centered on upholstery at 7 1/2" down from the horizontal line where center panel and headlining meet. If your switch is on passenger side, the metal pillar cutout location is at the same height..

Attach file:

---

  (29.43 KB)


  (23.26 KB)


  (32.05 KB)