Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Remove rod; cut off old shock; plug rod & weld in; cut threads or weld Ford Pinto shock to plug. Adjust?rebolt to shackle point.

Or just have the existing unit rebuilt. There are folks who specialize in this service.

I don't think the rear rod-shock absorber item being discussed is really a Panhard Rod. As I understand it, a Panhard Rod is to prevent the sideways motion of the rear axle. The Packard part has a shock absorber which will allow the axle to move from side to side. The rear axle is located by the leaf springs and their mountings to the frame. The rod's function is to serve as a sway bar and absorb some shock. Right?

(o{}o)

I fully agree, JW. Panhard rods establish location of the rear axle and since the Packard unit in question has a variable length, it's for ride/comfort control and not to locate the rear axle.

I'm wondering what significantly changed in those cars that used the trans stabilizer vs the 51 on that did not. What is so different in the pre 51 rear axle and spring geometry that it was needed or beneficial yet could be eliminated on later cars?

The later cars used much wider leaves in the springs. This has two advantages: The wider springs are less prone to deflecting sideways and are stiffer in torsion. The first advantage largely eliminates the need for a panhard rod except on the heaviest of cars. The second increased roll stiffness without the need of a separate stabilizer bar.

The 23d series eights did use just a simple panhard rod without a shock, as did all the 127 inch wheelbase cars after that. I think the Caribbeans in 53-54 also had one.

I'm curious if anyone has actually tried this Pinto shock idea for the rear stabilizer as mentioned in the first post -- or does anyone have another proven replacement solution. The Pinto item doesn't look quite the right configuration but other short shocks with a stem on each end might be.

Just exploring other options and rebuild is probably the best one -- although I didn't see any firms readily advertising the service. Just the lever types. Max and Kanter both say inquire so that probably means they don't have them or what they have is expensive.

With the stabilizer off the car, is there a reliable test to determine if the unit is functional without having the car driving down the road?

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Howard, et. al. - Here is a photo of the shock absorber end of the rear stablizer bar on my 47 Custom after cleaning and painting. Don't recall for sure, but believe I tested it like one would do a shock absorber to determine if it worked. My guess is it was still working or I would have tried to fix it. Hope this helps.

(o{}o)

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Same item except mine was just removed today & still has a layer of patina (aka rust) on it. Stem doesn't move easily so feels like there is some resistance when trying to pull the pieces apart. Expect 4000 lbs of car moves it with more authority than I can though. Wondering how fast it should be able to move by hand. If the stabilizer is shot, what are the symptoms -- side to side shimmy & shake or just mild sea sickness from some body roll?