Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

One thing that I (and perhaps others here) overlooked in the opening post is that the issue arises "after 2 days".

This suggests some sort of leakdown in the system, likely at the carb - though it may not be easily recognizeable. However, until we get a little more info from the owner, it's all just speculation.

The owner needs to check both things that I cited (in post #3) before going much further. Heck, there could be more than one cause at the root of his complaint.

Wow what a response! With vast knowledge. sorry guys have been off line for a few days I will try some of your ideas over the next couple of evenings after work and re post.
Thank you guys Andy.

Given the description, it is not a fuel delivery issue, but the fact the bowl is draining of fuel after sitting for a couple of days. As a check valve didn't fix the issue, it's not a case of the fuel draining back through the supply line. So really the only other thing it could be is the fuel leaking from the bowl itself. Porous casting, leaky plug, etc.

Does it restart ok after you have run it a while, shut it off and let it set for like 30 mins or so? If not, that may also point to a percolation issue.

This will be my last comment on this matter...

I once had a friend who is now long gone, but he had fleets of V8 Packards. Lots of them. I had a problem with starting my Caribbean after it sat for a few days. I also had problems with my Patrician likewise after a few days. So I asked him if he ever had a similar issue. Indeed he did.

The Rochester carbs on both cars were already rebuilt. I yanked the fuel pumps and took them to a Packard-friendly fuel pump rebuilder in those days in downtown Los Angeles. The fellow who ran the place advised me that there was nothing at all wrong with my fuel pumps but rebuilt them for me anyway.

I installed the fuel pumps back on both cars and... a few days later... SAME problem.

My friend chuckled and asked me if I had checked the flex hose fitting by the fuel pump. It looked fine to me, but no indeed I had not. THEN he instructed me to remove the guts of the sediment bowl leading to the carbs and take a look. Sure enough, at times it did not seem to be filling solid and after a few days the start issue returned. Each car would still start with a prime.

I removed the flex hoses and even though they seemed to look fine, upon bending them, each had dozens of tiny and not-so-tiny hairline cracks. I replaced the hoses and the problem...went away. Just as he said it would.

I had a similar issue occur on my 1966 Eldorado. Cured it the same way.

This simple cure certainly will not always and everywhere be a solution on a one-to-one basis. However, my simple point is if a patient comes into a doctor with chest pains this does not mean open-heart surgery is mandated. Try the easy possibilities first... then get into more difficult and expensive remedies afterward.

RE: UV damage to rubber... this is wholly possible with tires. UV is an acronym for Ultra-Violet light... which is transmitted via direct sunlight. Kinda hard to do under the hood of a car! However smog-rot (or ozone damage) to rubber-especially in large urban areas with smog is always a good possibility. The reason RV owners put covers on their tires when these vehicles are not being used is to prevent UV damage... but kinda hard to get UV damage in fuel lines under the hood and under the car.

RE: Tire rubber UV damage compared to fuel line rubber rot... Tires don't have gasoline running through them. AND tires (at least for this example) are pushing outward with pressure... while the rubber flex line on the fuel pump is sucking IN... and that means sucking whatever happens to be in the ambient air or whatever environment it can reach. And tires-despite hairline cracks from UV damage-are a heck of a lot thicker and tougher than a small fuel flex coupling.

RE: Moisture in fuel tanks and lines...
? With the large number of these tanks being replaced today and the fact that ethanol is in much of the fuel supply in the USA and certainly overseas (and believe me-or not-where there is one, there is usually the other)...this should not be an issue of debate. Especially with such empirical evidence
? Gasoline and fuels float on TOP of moisture (water)-not the other way around. Which is why there are oil slicks sometimes at sea. And why that cute little elbow-bend metal gasoline pick-up tube in the bottom of the Packard V8 gas tank gets sooooo rusty, some even get plugged solid. What's causing the tube and tank to rust? It certainly isn't mere petroleum.

RE: Check valves in fuel lines... A check valve in a fuel line, or even several of them again is not a "if this, then that" cure. It all depends on where the check valve has been placed. IF it is after the possible point of a flex-line rot, then all the check valves in the world can't remedy the problem any more than closing the barn door after the horse has run away. A leaking carb fuel bowl should give off several visible cues and other clues. However, if a check valve is in the wrong spot to remedy the issue I mention earlier, it will do little or nothing. Just like placing a diode in an electrical circuit at a point after that circuit can go to ground.

I am not interested in an endless debate, which is the staple of most online forums. I merely relate what I know and offer that information in the spirit of suggesting a quick, low-cost and easy cure. End of story.

After my 55 Clipper sits for awhile, about a week, it has to crank forever before stating. I have had the gas tank cleaned and resealed, replaced the fuel lines, including the rubber hose, had the carb rebuilt, rebuit the fuel pump, cleaned and check out the filter, but it still is hard starting. New points, plugs and condensor. Timing is right on. After it starts, it runs great with no more problems until it sits awhile. I attribute the problem to modern gas. I hear it evaporates.

I hear it evaporates.

Never spilled any and seen how fast it disappears? All liquids evaporate under the right conditions. Even Mercury evaporates, though very slowly. Gasoline is quite volatile and evaporates relatively rapidly mostly thru the fuel bowl vent system. Modern gas with ethanol probably does evaporate a bit faster than traditional leaded gasoline. My V8 usually starts almost instantly if it has been idle for a week or less. It may crank for 5-10 seconds if its been idle for 2 weeks or so. After sitting for an entire winter is often needs to crank for 30 seconds or so. And good practice is to NOT let the starter run continuously for more than 10 or so seconds at a time.

I have no intention of altering my car, I'm really happy to have it crank a bit to build oil pressure before it starts. But if it really bothers you, install an electric pusher pump back by the tank but I'd recommend that you use a "dead man" or similar switch so it's just used for priming and not for constant use.

i agree dave, lets the oil get thru engine. might be hard on battery and starter, but you have a wet start up than a dry one.