Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Glad it was relatively simple and you didn't have to go chasing major parts. Wonder if it was taken apart and not reassembled correctly or old age just caused things to fall off.

I wouldn't chastise the slide rule as a former user. After all it's what got us this far... There's no premium for precision once acceptable has been determined, i.e. tolerances are still necessary.

Exactly - the slide rule calculation was more precise than the production machinery's capability. It was the adding and subtracting that was painful!

Yes, I suspect both a possibility. Especially things falling off with old age. I am intimately familiar with that concept:)

My '51 200 does the exact same thing. I've just been holding the lever with one of my fingers as I drove to keep it from vibrating in second. Figured it was just sloppy for age, now I know how to fix it. Thanks guys.

mtPackard51...if you install a new nut at the end of the shifter tube that extends from the firewall..you will need to adjust the tightness/tension of the mechanism so that it does not bind. PS..I purchased a nylon lock nut with a nylon retainer in it to help keep the nut from backing out and falling off. A DROP of light oil or PTFE lubricant on all the contact surfaces helps the smoothness of linkage operation after you are done tightening it to your satisfaction. The nylon retaining nut I purchased was 5/8 inch inside diameter with size/pitch 18 threads..I imagine yours might be the same.

Keep it rolling, man!

I'm a little curious about your setup. I misunderstood and thought you meant a missing nut on the bracket clamp holding things to the column. The parts book doesn't mention a nut used on the end of the outer shaft for any years. On mine (47), there isn't much room for a nut and the cotter key is below the bracket in what little space there is.

AFAIK, the linkages are all pretty similar since introduction. A slight shape change in a particular piece from these photos for prewar conventional models and for 51 on models. Believe they all function exactly the same though. Typically the C rings and washer/shims tension and position the shift levers properly. Once levers, shims, clips etc are assembled, the bracket threads on shaft, spring and cotter key installed, and then everything clamps onto the steering column. No tension nuts are used. The inner rod spring is held by the cotter key to provide the gearshift lever tension via the inner shift rod.

Is your setup similar -- except for the shape of the shift levers -- to this one shown as was used on prewar Clippers thru 22-23 series and the illustration from the prewar parts manual?

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Howard, thank you for those wonderful schematics and all your efforts in sending them to me. Upon further examination of these schematics, it seems apparent that the cotter pin at the distal end of the shaft that retained the tensioning spring is missing on my car. Perhaps the spring is up inside the shaft, or fell out completely. I will have to try to use a light and inspection mirror to determine this. That said, the 3/4 round snap ring that I used as a shim seemed to take up most of the slack along the 'shifter tube' and stop the gear handle vibration in second gear. The nylon lock nut at the distal end of the shaft (where the spring-retaining cotter pin would normally go) seems to have made the mechanism tight yet with no binding. I have no gear shift handle vibration in any gear at this time. I would like to return to original configuration, so I will try to look for the spring and replace the missing cotter pin. In the mean time, do you think there is any harm in continuing with my modified configuration? I appreciate all your thoughts. Thanks again.

I don't think it will hurt anything running as you are. As long as you are comfortable with the feel and nothing is popping out of gear, then probably no need for change -- other than if you wanted to return it to stock. The inner rod is held to the select mechanism or "shift tongue" by a fairly heavy pin so doubt anything would come loose and fall out.

If the cotter key is missing then I don't know what would be holding the spring. Maybe it is cocked or the end caught on something. With the spring in the normally compressed state, the tension is fairly strong so gearshift lever should need a definite pull against the spring to select 1 and R. If you don't feel that tension, maybe there is no spring. If it is missing, that could have also been contributing to the vibration..

Thanks again, Howard..will you be at Salado in a couple of weeks?