Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

mikec,

Good job. But ONLY 1/3 inch? That ain't so bad. I've heard of cases of an inch or more congealed glop down there. How about metal? Sounds like you didn't find much or any... which is very good.

As long as you're cleaning it up, one thing you could do before you change oil is to drizzle some MM into the carb throat while it's running (just idling) until it "chokes" out. Then let it sit overnight. Next day, start it, give it some gas and watch the clouds of fun stuff come out the tail pipe(s). After that you'll definitely need an oil change.

Might be good to tell your neighbors when you plan to start it, and tell them that it's just a one-time thing-- until your next old car needs an engine enema.

Did you pull a couple of bearing caps to examine while the pan was down? Sure gives great peace-of-mind when you do so and find things in good order.

no bearing problems here.

while we were dropping the steering, both p/s hoses split wide open. i guess they wouldntve lasted much longer driving anyway. that car is a tank to drive without p/s.

I was working with my dad who is a brilliant engineer, and a very skilled local gentleman who has restored more than 10 cars and we are sure weve got everything in the steering back together right, but now i have such a terrible wobble/shimmy, that i cant drive it. it comes and goes rapidly, and is amplified by bumps in the road. could this be caused by the lack of pressure in the p/s cylnder? I hope??

55packardguy: the only neighbors that are close enough to care, i am okay with bothering.

Am sure your shimmy is caused by no pressure. With pressure, the power cylinder acts as a damper which isn't there now and with the steering wheel holding the pitman arm still but connected to the valve, the valve body is connected to wheels and is free to move the 1/4 inch or more movement range because there is no pressure on the valve to keep it centered and stationary.

hh56 that is exactly what i thought was happening! thank you for reaffirming my suspicions! is it worth paying kanters around $200 U.S. for a set of lines, or could i just have the local tractor shop make me a set?

The local tractor shop or low rider guys can do it. They may not look the same since the original fittings probably aren't around, but local guy made mine that works perfectly. I think they even did the size transition that happens a couple of ft from the valve.

is there any reason for that transition?

I don't believe NOS hoses are still available (not sure if I'd trust 50+ year old rubber anyway), but I've yet to see a reproduction hose for these cars that has the original style fittings.

Given that, IMHO, you can get just as good a hose made locally if you have a sample to go by and a shop that can do that work.

Take note, however, that the hoses between the control valve and the power cylinder are not exactly the same length.

There is a reason for that transition that goes beyond merely the fitting at the end, but darned if I can remember it.

I think I remember reading it was a restriction but for what purpose and where I read that, can't remember right now. Will try and work on it tomorrow.

I was thinking decrease volume/increase pressure? but the why is still there.