Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Want to thank everyone for their help and comments on my Packard's oil pressure situation. As I had mentioned the Spring was shimmed with 4 standard thickness washers.
Changed oil and filter. Now running Rotella 15-40.
Did a test drive. Pressure started out about 40.
On the road about 50. Warmed up with some miles traveled,
the pressure on the highway low 40 and at idle about 15.
When the parts come in for the mechanical oil pressure gauge
I will install under the hood as mentioned before.
The Packard drives better now that I have tightened and pinned the outer tie rod end nuts. Can't believe that I missed those on assembly. Working on the turn signals.
Should be brighter. I'm checking the wiring to see if the parking light and the turn signals light wires and are "misswired". The rear turn signals seem dim also.
I did install a rear window mounted brake light bar and that works well.
My turn signal switch on the column will not cancel.
The dash turn signal indicators flash 2 to 5 times and then quit. The signal lights are still working but dim.
I bought an aftermarket column mount turn signal "unit"
Have not installed. I put a new flasher in when I rewired under the dash.

The older thermal type flashers are very dependent on the proper circuit and filament resistance. If there is incorrect wiring or something causing the flasher to see too much or too little resistance at the bulbs it won't flash properly. The 47 also has resistors in the indicator light wiring. Each indicator bulb is connected directly to the P terminal of flasher and has what appears to be an inline fuse holder. That is actually a cartridge type resistor.

The canceling is dependent on two small maybe 1/8" diameter pins extending from bottom of wheel hub catching "hooks" in the switch mechanism. When the lever is moved, one of the hooks moves into position to be caught. As the wheel rotates in the direction of turn, springs allow the pins to push the mechanism aside without catching. As the wheel rotates back, the hook will not move aside so a pin catches the mechanism and pulls the lever back to off position. In off position, the hooks rest out of the way of the pins. That entire sequence is depending on both pins being in the wheel hub and at the same height and also the column and mechanism being the correct distance from the base of steering wheel so the mechanism sits high enough to be caught.

The turn signals on my 1947 Super Clipper would occasionally fail to cancel.I found that the steering column would slip down a bit , maybe a 1/4" or so and that I had to unscrew the steering column from the dash bracket and pull the column closer to the steering wheel. The turn signals would then work properly. You may want to look at the gap between the wheel and column and adjust the column upwards. This may be your problem.
Re the old pressure I had a similar problem and I replacing the oil pump cover with a thinner gasket and shimmied the relief spring and got slightly better oil pressure as well. It never got better than 40 PSI on highway running and would sink to about 15psi hot and at idle. I installed a good quality guage directly to the engine by teeing into the oil outlet line to the filter. My dash gauge tended to be optimistic especially at idle. The engine ran fine however otherwise.

the turn signal on my 51 would work, but not cancel. As noted in Howard's comments, on the back of the 51 steering wheel there are two steel pins facing the engine compartment. When the wheel turns, the pins are supposed to hit the cancel switch on the turn signal. As mine were not touching, I pulled them out and installed two longer pins. That solved the issue.

However, several years later, there was an article in the Auto Restorer magazine on restoring "Rudy, the Farm Truck". It talked about the "rag" connector on the steering column, and how the flexible fiber connector on the steering column had deteriorated and allowed the steering wheel to move toward the engine compartment. (the rag connector basically acts like a u-joint for the steering column, and also absorbs road shock)

The writer replaced the rag connector and it moved the steering wheel back. I suspect that this was my problem, and possibly the issue on your car.

The writer replaced the rag connector and it moved the steering wheel back. I suspect that this was my problem, and possibly the issue on your car.

If the rag connector is what I think it is, that only applies to 56 and maybe the 57-8.

Thru 55 between steering box and wheel, Packard steering shafts were one piece long heavy tubes with the horn wire down the middle. One of the little items that can make taking the steering column out or wheel off so much fun.

If the tube needs to move, looking at my 47 I think the clamp at the steering box may be the culprit. The part of column the switch is mounted to is welded to the long cover tube over the shaft and goes all the way down to clamp at the box. If you have the backup or OD switch on the bracket, the lower clamp may have loosened with the motion of the shift lever pushing against the switch. If so, the tube is only held by the upper bracket. If loosening that clamp and the one under the dash won't allow the tube to move up, there is a split ring on the steering shaft that forms a race for the upper bearing. That may have slid down as the tube moved. That ring may also have to move up a tiny bit to allow the tube and bearing to move.

Thanks for advice on the 47. Been gone up the North Shore for three days. Very cool for this time of year...47*
Got the parts for the mechanical oil pressure gauge. Installed it off the oil pressure cross with a "tee" to keep the sender for the dash gauge and the new mechanical gauge on the engine.
Did a test cruise yesterday (about 10 - 12 miles )
Oil pressure cold was 58 on the new gauge. On the test run the pressure on the road was about 40 as the engine warmed up. As I returned to the garage the pressure had dropped to about "0".
Went out today and did the same test cruise. Pressure cold
was 58. During the test highway driving 50 -55 mph the gauge read about low 40. Getting back to the garage it was about on the 0 peg. The mechanical gauge read about 2 lbs.
The Temp gauge was right in the middle all the time.
outside temp today about 80.
Is it time for a new oil pump for the 47 ????
I've checked some of the Packard parts dealers on line.
Seems like the oil pumps for the 356 are to get you existing pump rebuilt. Anyone had any experiences with pump rebuilders and what kind of turn around time is required. Who does a good job on the rebuilds.
Thanks to all who have responded.

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, MN

Are you aware that one of the country's best 356 rebuilders is located in Montgomery, Minnesota? Earl Sejrup (pronounced sigh-rup) 952-758-2360

Another cause of low oil pressure is worn main bearings.

(o{}o)