Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

customclipper55,

Learned a lot from your post, and also agree with what you say about things I am familiar with. Thanks especially for your comment on MC not likely causing pull on older cars. Whew, don't want to touch that thing again!

The break job I had done last year did not include replacing lines. I talked to mechanic about that. I told him to take off both ends and blow compressed air through to check. I don't know if this is an adequate check, but I figure it's better than nothing. Also advised him to check hoses the same way.

If lines and hoses are clear, I asked him to note hydraulic pressure to each side, especially in front, to make sure both sides are getting equal pressure. Also told him to check backing plates and A arm bushings. He agreed that bad bushings could "suck it out of alignment" while stopping and cause the car to pull. I think it could also possibly torque some part of the brakes until they rubbed, causing metal-on-metal contact and the screeching noise.

I did not mention lubing star adjuster innards with lith, but will let him know about this!

I supplied copies of the shop manual brake adjustment pages, and Ross' helpful hints on major adjustments. This mechanic actually listens to you and takes instructions seriously, asks good question, and offers good ideas. He totally understood the necessity to lay off the drums. (There is a bit of pulsation, but nothing I can't live with, and it might go away as linings get more broken in).

Anybody around the Minneapolis/St. Paul area looking for a mechanic like this, PM me. He's not a youngster, and is a car hobbiest himself, with a '69 Camaro.

well. Blowing thru the hoses is an ok check but only a partial one. If the front end checks out and tire are not unevenly worn or inflated to different pressures, first swap the tires lf fr to rt and rt fr to left. If no change I would still replace the hoses. I agree with the previous poster about a clog. I have had a clog cause issues but I have had hoses get damaged internally and deteriorate over time so they will"balloon" under pressure and cause pull to the opposite side. I see mechanics and even these tv show guru's who pinch off hoses so as not to loose fluid. I implore everyone never to do this with a brake hose or kink one or let a backing plate+wheel cyl or a caliper hang by one. You have just damaged the hose. toss it out! Pinch a heater hose maybe but brake hoses are not just rubber, They are dual, inner lined hoses and can get compromised internally. drum systems need 650psi to 800. Disc calipers work on 800-1000 psi. Hoses will balloon. I have always kept and used the little rubber caps that come in the reman wheel cylr and masters,spun them around and capped the hard lines while servicing(they fit right over the dbl flare end). Never let an old system run dry up to the master and Never mash the pedal to the floor when bleeding an old system or you will cause issues.

Here's what happened:

The mechanic, wisely I think, checked the front suspension and brakes first, and, seeing everything in good shape, pulled the REAR drums which had to be re-surfaced. That ended the screeching, pulling, etc.

I did realize that the rear brakes, with their superior leverage, could raise hell with the front end pulling violently to the side, so I had asked for an all-around adjustment. But I really didn't suspect the rear drums to be that out of true.

On my little instruction sheet to the mechanic, I said to turn the drums only if absolutely necessary. In this case, it was. I'm pretty sure he had them do the least possible material removal. (He sent them out for re-surfacing.)

Anyway, it worked. No more screech or pulling, and no more pulsing, either. He charged $40 for resurfacing the drums and $4.00 brake fluid, plus $95 labor for R&R, adjusting all 4 brakes again, and re- packing the front wheel bearings. He also checked lines and hoses with compressed air. All clear. I think I got a pretty good deal, and a firm pedal to boot!

And so the learning curve goes up!!!! The additional super sleuthing done to diagnosis the brake problem is a feather in your cap. I have found that when I ask a question I get the answer, it's our responsibility to "pass it on" and make cogent notes for your records, 'cause the older we get the more we forget......(at least in my case) Well done.

Great news! "Who'da thunk" out of round rear drums could cause such problems up front, yet there it is. Anyway, another Packard mystery is solved. BTW, your mechanic's prices are very reasonable, or at least they would be in these here parts. Enjoy the ride!