Re: Should I replace steel brake/gas lines?
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Gene -
Something's fishy, there. To be honest, there's no Advanced Auto Parts stores close by, but I know they stock the copper-nickel stuff in the Youngstown, OH stores. It can also be ordered online; here's a link to their page for the 3/16" stuff: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy/products/113516-nickel-copper-alloy-brake-line-coil-3-16-x-25-by-nicopp-part-cnc-325-hardware-fasteners.html Plug your own zip code into the "Check Availability" box on that page; the truth is out there. I got the stuff for dealership stock from stores in my area that were affiliated with the Federated Auto Parts and Advantage Auto Stores chains; dunno if you have any of those in your area. FWIW, here are the supplier part numbers for the four sizes that I'm aware of: CNC-325 = 3/16" x 25' CNC-425 = 1/4" x 25' CNC-525 = 5/16" x 25' CNC-625 = 3/8" x 25' I think you'll find that most parts stores just slap a sticker with their own logo over the supplier's label. Some will go as far to assign their own unique part for inventory control and point-of-sale systems, but they should be able to cross-reference the CNC #s. Yes, the copper-nickel tubing uses the same tube fittings as steel lines. New inverted flare nuts are available in short and long varieties; here are the supplier (Edelmann) part numbers: 121003 = 3/16" short 121030 = 3/16" long 121004 = 1/4" short 121040 = 1/4" long 121005 = 5/16" short 121050 = 5/16" long 121006 = 3/8" short 121060 = 3/8" long ...but I've never run across a long fitting used on an OE line. Nope, no proportioning valves used back then.
Posted on: 2012/7/5 22:08
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Re: Should I replace steel brake/gas lines?
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Thanks for the information and the link. Advance is having a 15% off sale if you buy it on-line before the 14th. The extra savings will help a lot.
THANKS AGAIN! Gene
Posted on: 2012/7/6 7:09
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Re: Should I replace steel brake/gas lines?
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I realize that this is an older thread; it came up in a search while researching making new brake for my 41. I found the discussion to be highly informative, and was a big part in my decision to go with the NiCopp tubing.
This is the first time I've made brake lines. The NiCopp is a pleasure to work with and very easy to flare. It is also very easy to bend, and work with. I did find that a good flaring tool makes a huge difference. The first one I purchased was a ![]()
Posted on: 2015/3/11 11:01
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Re: Should I replace steel brake/gas lines?
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My experience is exactly the same as Chad's. I spent days fussing around with steel tubing and a rental flaring tool trying to perfect double flares. Finally bought a Ridgid 345 and some NiCopp. This is the best way to go for a beginner. Just about foolproof.
Posted on: 2015/3/11 15:36
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Re: Should I replace steel brake/gas lines?
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I used copper nickle on my 54 Clipper. Brake lines and Gas lines. It is really easy to work with. A bit more expensive, but saves a lot of time.
Posted on: 2015/3/11 18:29
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Re: Should I replace steel brake/gas lines?
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I worked in an aerospace in a lab and made thousands of flares over the years. Some with simple flaring tools and others with expensive ones on copper, aluminum, mild & stainless steels.
At home, I have a Ridgid 345-DL and have been very impressed with the ease and quality of the flares it makes. As mentioned above for a double flare, make sure everything is square and get your depths right and you'll get a great flare every time.
Posted on: 2015/3/12 9:51
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Re: Should I replace steel brake/gas lines?
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I've worked on it a little each evening this week, after work, and most of the lines are made and in place.
I haven't been able to find a reliable spec or recommendation on how tight to torque the flare nuts? It seems that most things I have read say to finger tighten and then another ? turn or so, until fairly snug, without overtightening. Does that sound appropriate? Is there a technique for doing them even and consistent?
Posted on: 2015/3/13 6:51
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Re: Should I replace steel brake/gas lines?
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The not-very-useful answer is, tight enough not to leak, not so tight as to damage the threads or fitting. If you need anything more than modest pressure with a short wrench, something is wrong. The better the quality of the flare (and the alignment of the tube to the fitting) and assuming a perfect seat in the fitting, the less additional tightening beyond "snug" is required.
Posted on: 2015/3/13 9:43
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