Packard Forum Index » General

To tighten lug nuts properly, buy a torque stick - or a set. They are invaluable.

I bought an air hammer many years ago and I use it as much as the impact.

For example: to remove a model T Ford rear wheel you are suposed to apply the official Ford wheel puller and tighten the center bolt and smack it with a hammer; usually getting sickening sounds from the Differential.

With the air hammer (and the Ford puller) just a quick burst and the wheel is off the taper with out the sickening crunch of the thrust bearings.

The energy is better absorbed and doesn't seem to harm other bearings.

Jim

I actually never had to hit axle pullers very hard to remove drums. I would run the puller tight and only need "ping" the puller. I don't recall ever using an impact on the puller. Gentle heating - yes, beating on things - no.

That model creates 600 ftlbs in reverse and has a working range up to 350. For most auto applications that's twice as much as the most you'll ever need to torque anything.
So it's fine for snapping off bolts and stripping studs/threads. Not the precise tool you'll want for assembly. Even if you adjust it to deliver proper torque, I'd recommend to check with a torque wrench. Don't just go by the air settings. Some have a torque sequence that starts low and ramps up so it's not much use for those.
With alot of speed comes alot of heat and that can harm special tensile studs or bolts. Use a penetrating lubricant before breaking and oil on threads before tightening and adjust the torque spec for "wet" torque. Leave the impact on the shelf for tightening. Ok to run them up, but finish with a torque wrench.
Even lug nuts/bolts only need at most 120-150 ftlbs. Yeah, you can crank 'em on to max for a few cycles but eventually... Plus, on the road you have to loosen with a "wrench". So you don't want to hit 'em up full for that.
Most tire shops hire unskilled help and turn them loose with impact tools for speed. I had a flat on my trailer while on the road and I took it to the nearest branded tire dealer for a new tire since it was covered they rotated/balanced too. The tire jockey put the big dog on the alloy wheel lugnuts and stripped all the studs. Spec is a meager 75 ftlbs. I didn't find it out till I got home. I carry a torque wrench for wheel tightening when traveling.

The problems with tire shops is something that I'm always seeing. And I don't know if asking to pay extra for them to use a torque wrench will do any good. When it comes to wheels most mechanics are just plain stupid. Those are the only people they can get to work at those places. And when you look at the wheels they are putting on cars today the whole world is getting stupider and stupider. Big heavy wheels that require light and cheap suspension systems to reduce unsprung weight and have minuscule aspect ratios that give lousy ride quality and are unsafe over rough roads.

When my present OBD II car finally wears out I don't know what I will do because everything being built today is junk.

Lots of good advice above inc using torque wrenches for final tightening and proper style sockets and eye protection. There are some unjustified fears . You will find air tool invaluable in some applications
A word of advice on plumbing your air lines. You should have 1 line on the shortest run unregulated for your 231 and air hammer etc. you should run a second run up over the ceiling and down the wall farthest from the compressor with a down pipe and a tee with a 6 in min drip trap with water bleed. On the tee sideways mount a good 2 stage filter, separator. And the a regulator with guage. This will be your clean air source for paint spray. Use this even for your air chuck nozzle when body work has commensed. Some get fisheyes and blems and dont realize the amt of tradh, water, and even oil from the air source even blowing surfaces of dust while prepping for paint. The distance from the source allows the air to cool and the wTer to condense out of the compressed hot air.