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Ken, I have a set of 5 Hankook DnyaPro AS P225/75 R16 from Diamondback on my 115C Convertible Coupe. Great tires and have a correct look. I recommend them.

(o{}o)

Flack and JW- thanks for the info and tire sizes. Nothing worse than buying tires that don't fit! JW, did you have to do anything to run radials on OEM wheels? I'm assuming you don't run tubes. Also, do you have any pictures?

Ken, I mounted the tires on the original wheels without tubes. They never lost any air over long periods of time. Later I went with some other wheels that I had media blasted and powder coated. Again, the tires were mounted as done the first time with no problems. Just make sure your bead sealing surfaces are clean and smooth. I'll get a photo off to you tomorrow. The 37 wheels take the larger size valve stems which are no problem to obtain.

(o{}o)

Ken, here are two photos of the Packard that were taken on Friday. The other is at a car show on Saturday.

Friday was the first drive after a comprehensive service which took place over the past two months. I removed the oil pan and cleaned it and the pump pick-up screen, removed all the brake drums and inspected and cleaned the brakes and packed the front wheel bearings and adjusted the foot and hand brakes, flushed new brake fluid into the system, changed all the oils (engine, transmission, differential), lubricated chassis, replaced fuel and air filters, and serviced shock absorbers. Also, installed turn signals and did some other minor work.

Drove the car on Saturday on a 75 mile round trip to a car show in Sun City which is near Georgetown. Great show in a nice setting. The 115C was the only Packard there. It was most popular with the public and participants. Many photos were taken and many nice comments received. If the public could have voted, it would have been the most popular car there, but it was a judged car show and it did place in its class. It's not about the hardware, but about showing the car and letting all the folks see and enjoy it.

The drive was uneventful and the car never stumbled once, even in heavy afternoon traffic with long red lights. I just wish I could drive where there are no traffic lights and no traffic.

Good news on locating needed bearings and parts to complete your engine rebuild.

(o{}o)

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JW, thanks for the motivation! I am looking forward to driving my car this summer. Once I get the engine back together, it will be mechanically sorted more or less completely. I am planning on re-assembling and driving some this summer to properly break in the engine. Then I will need to make some decisions on the body- pay someone to do it all, put the project on hold until I am out of the Navy and don't have to move every 2 or 3 years, or just dive in, one repair at a time. Lots to think about, but I'll get to drive it some while I am considering my options.

John,

Wasn't going to worry, but can't help myself!

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Mal, thanks for setting me straight.

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An update, as it has been some time since I posted. I got the crank ground and fit 0.010 under bearings on the main and rod journals. Because I had to go to that length, I also fit new 3.5" pistons, had the block bored, and new cam bearings installed. My machinist fit the wrist pins, bushings and assembled the piston and rod assemblies. I also had the connecting rod journals on the crank end renewed- they were egged out, so I had them reconditioned also.

I'm well into the re-assembly phase now. Cam and crank are installed, valve train installed again. I had .002 on #1, 3, and 4 mains and 0.0015 on #2. I installed the timing chain, only to remember that the motor mount plate needed to go on first, so the chain came off and then back on. Unlike one of the other posters, no issues with size!

I gapped all of the piston rings (all came in at 0.017, per spec), and then installed the rings. Side clearance is good too, which is expected for new pistons. Put the first piston in, checked the clearance- 0.001, perfect, and went to re-torque the connecting rod bolts. My machinist spec-ed out 55 to 60 ft-lbs for those bolts. I didn't go back and check the Engine Manual here. I just did, and it specifies 45-46 ft-lb.

The bad news- I stripped out a connecting rod stud, so I'll have to source a nut breaker and remove the stud. I think I have a spare somewhere in the parts from my spare engine block, but if not, I'll be looking for one here.

What is the chance that I ruined the bearing by over crushing? I would think it would be pretty low, but this is the first time I've done this, so I thought I would ask a few more experienced people.

The good news- I won't screw up the other five pistons now. It is good to see the engine going back together.

All the pistons are in, engine is coming together. I do have a stud, but no castellated nuts.

Anyone have one floating around? I will check fastenal tomorrow and the major vendors.

Edited for spelling.

Ken,

"castled nuts (spelling?)"

This according to the great God Wikipedia.