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Thursday 13th August 2015

Yesterday - Picked up the re-cored radiator from the workshop which Wade had delivered there. Speaking of the workshop, I was saddened to learn that Misty, John's dog had succumbed to cancer. No more bones for her although she's probably very happy chasing motorcycles in doggy heaven. Wade also delivered the remains of my 20 litre drum of engine oil, probably about 3 to 4 litres left, which was in his garage. Unfortunately our paths didn't cross so I'll have to thank him for the delivery service another day.

Today - Put the radiator back into it's cradle. Safest place for it be, out of the way and ready for when the front clip goes back on. Not much more done than that although there was further cleaning of the manifold surface on the engine block. Although I said this "brass nuts on the manifold studs. I'm going to go with steel nuts when it goes back together", Ken's advice that "Believe it or not, the brass nuts are what the factory used, because they have a coefficient of thermal expansion more similar to that of cast iron" has led me to a change of mind. So tidied up the brass nuts for the job ahead. Want to have the manifold back on. as well as a number of other things, before the front clip goes on.

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Monday 17th August 2015

After yesterdays Shannons Sydney Classic during which I fielded many queries about why the Coupe wasn't in attendance did something about that today. More cleaning of gasket surfaces on the block and intake/exhaust manifold and ensuring the brass nuts would screw onto the studs without impediment. Then using Permatex Hitemp RTV laid down a track on one side of the three intake/exhaust manifold gaskets and pressed them gently against the block then laid another track of RTV on the intake/exhaust manifold side of the gaskets. Maneuvered the intake/exhaust manifold unit into place, relatively easy because the front clip is off. I wouldn't want to attempt doing that if the clip was still on! Put on the thick washers followed by the brass nuts and tightened them gently so as not to squeeze the RTV out from the gasket, block and intake/exhaust manifolds surfaces. Will tighten the nuts down tomorrow. Put the carb back on, reconnected the throttle linkage, reconnected the fuel line, reconnected the tube to the automatic choke and finally reconnected the vacuum advance line to the distributor. The tube to the automatic choke doesn't connect to the tube through the exhaust manifold, it was broken when I got the Coupe. Instead Tim of Carburettor Service Company, when he rebuilt and refitted the carb, rigged up a brass tube which winds around and lays against the middle of the exhaust manifold, works well. The only problem with these reinstalls was the vacuum advance tube. Ended up, after many attempts and not wanting to cross thread anything, unscrewing the carb fitting and starting the vacuum advance tube into that and then reinstalling the carb fitting into the base of the carb.

Link to yesterdays photos, mostly uncaptioned.

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Tuesday 18th August 2015

Only a little done today. Tightened the intake/exhaust manifold nuts, remounted the generator and removed the water pump to check the water distribution tube. Generator was straightforward but will be tightened up once the fan and fan belt are mounted. In order to remove the water pump needed to drain the remaining coolant in the block. Undid the four bolts holding the water pump to the block and as I did so coolant started to drain out, running mainly down the front of the engine thence into a large container under the car. I'd needed to wait until the timing case was back on before undertaking this exercise. And didn't spill a drop! A near miracle for me. Once the coolant finished flowing, jacked up the rear of the Coupe so it was higher than the front allowing the coolant sitting in the block to flow out. I don't think I'm going to undo the little plug on the side of the block. The coolant that drained didn't seem to have any contaminants in it. Extracting the water distribution tube was a little harder than I thought it would be. But only because the end of the tube caught on the lip on the inside of the water jacket. Using a pair of pliers, to grip the tube, and a thin knife to slightly compress the top of the tube it then slid out easily. After being in there for 5 years there are no signs of any deposits in the tube although it needs a good cleaning, being slimy to touch. Haven't investigated the block itself as I need to get a good direct light source to shine down the block cavity.

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Back on the 15th March BDC posted this "Mal, what does the red hexagon mean?" in response to this post on the same day containing a flyer for our upcoming Packard National Rally. I didn't know so left the question unanswered until now, when an emailed copy of the August 2015 issue of The Caribbean Courier, Newsletter of The Florida Packard Club, contained this:

About the Packard Hexagon
As a side note, some historians credit the Model L as not only the first Packard to feature the company's famous yoke shaped radiator, but also her red hexagon hub caps. That was not the case. The first hex hubcaps appeared a couple of models later on the Model S. They were designed as an indent in the rear hubcap to facilitate using a special tool to remove the cap. For cosmetic purposes, the front cap featured the same indented hex, but served no practical purpose. The hexagons in the caps were actually painted black from the factory, not red. However, whenever the wheels were serviced by the factory or an authorized dealer, the hexagons were painted red to signify maintenance. The red was so attractive that Packard decided to make it their standard. Reportedly around 1940, the company was planning a modification, but there was such uproar from customers, they decided to continue with no changes to their famous icon.

Now I know, although there's a faint memory stirring that I may have heard/seen this story before.

Mal, You are a very naughty rabbit!.. You should place the RTV compound on the inside only of the manifold gasket..if at all. The Outside of the manifold gasket is graphite coated to allow the exhaust manifold to SLIDE ACROSS the gasket as it heats up. If you LOCK the gasket surface the exhaust manifold will tear the gasket apart as previously experienced. This is also true for persons unfortunate enough to have been conned into surfacing the manifold faces on a milling machine..leaving circular grooves which grip the manifold gasket and destroy it. You have bolted it up now so let's see how it goes. I speak from experience with my 38 Richards Six. .Best Regards PT

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Peter,

Hmmm, don't think I've been called "a very naughty rabbit" before whatever can that mean?

This post, back in 2010, was the previous time the manifolds were bolted up to the block although "Stag" was used then not RTV. Like you say, we'll have to "see how it goes".

Sunday 23rd August 2015

Getting closer to the front clip going back on. Made a gasket for the water pump, not to former MBM standards but should do the job nevertheless. After cleaning up surfaces gasket cemented the block, water pump and gasket but fortunately just before re-uniting the water pump with the engine I realised the water distribution tube hadn't been re-installed! Sliding it in, the water pump re-install then went ahead as planned. Re-connected the generator, the fuel pump heat shield and the engine pipe to the exhaust manifold. Then removed the right mudguard(fender) support, the left had been removed before the clip removal. Thinking it'll be easier for the clip reinstall if it's not there sticking up. Almost there, but also thinking I'd like to run the engine again very briefly before the clip goes on. I know, it'll be without coolant, but will be brief and it's just to ensure it does still work after Mal has been mucking around. Only trouble was the battery would barely turn the engine over. Charger connected to battery and charging now, so tomorrow will be test day.

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Tuesday 1st September 2015

First day of spring in this part of the world and, although the birds are singing and the grass growing, it's not a particularly happy day.

Tried to start the Coupe on Sunday but it was very sluggish in turning over. Taking heed of numerous other posts, concerning battery cable size, examined my battery cables and found the one from the battery to the starter motor was marked G2 which I thought might be 2 gauge. So, yesterday, had a new 00 gauge cable made up. The other cable to ground is a large braided cable so I think that's OK. Also charged up the battery in case that was a factor. With the new cable in place fired up the Coupe but shut it down very shortly thereafter because of a rubbing/grinding noise coming from the timing case. Tried starting again today with the same result, a rubbing/grinding noise coming from the timing case. My brother, in a phone call about that time, suggested I run it again and whatever was rubbing would find it's own level after a while. Needless to say I didn't take his brotherly "advice". Only thing to do was to take the timing case off to determine what the problem is.

Meant removing the harmonic balancer, jacking the engine up, removing the front engine mount yoke and then taking off the timing case. In doing so was greeted with a bunch of metal particles and a groove where the outside edge of the timing chain had "machined" a path in the timing case cover. And why did it do that? Because the timing case cover was off a 110 and not a 120! Knew that when Peter sent it to me and his advice was to check it, which I hadn't, so stupid me! Measurement, after the fact, reveals the 110 cover to be about 33 mm deep while the 120 is about 38 mm deep. If I'd listened to my brothers suggestion, besides a sump(pan) full of metal particles, I'd have a ventilated timing case where the timing chain had bravely gouged it way to freedom.

After this, I'm thinking my lack of mechanical savvy should keep me away from turning spanners(wrenches) on my Coupe. Very true but, without the benefit of deep pockets to finance anybody else working on the Coupe, looks like I'll just have to continue doing it myself.

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At least no further harm was done and the source of the problem has been identifie (the timing case!!).

Onwards and upwards!

I'd be concerned about any metallic particles finding their way down into the crankcase.