Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Some welder's chalk rubbed on the vibration damper will help spot the correct mark. I usually time mine in the garage with the lights out.

Thank you. I will try that .

White out works also.
Wes

What type of plug wires did you install on the car? I always heard that resistance type wires don't work well on 6 volt systems. most of the new wires are carbon fiber type wires.....
Did you change out the 6 volt coil? Is the polarity right on it for 6 positive ground?

John

New coil, 6 volt. Polarity is correct. Not sure what brand of wires we put on. Set the timing today. Every plug is getting good fire now. Fuel pump is pumping to the carb. Checked the screen filter in carb and it was beyond corroded and coverd in what looks like clay. So now I am gonna rebuild the carb. If I put in a little gas down the carburetor it trys to start, pops and sputters and almost starts. So everything else has been replaced, now got to redo the carb and things should work. What do you guts think?

What do you guys think? Pardon my mistake.

I have a carter 118-68 carburetor on my 54 clipper with a 327 engine. Is it a two barrel? Looks like it. All the local parts stores say it suppose to be a 4 barrel. Where is the best and cheapest place to get a rebuild kit?

The poster who mentioned the resistor wires has a valid point. A few have been caught with that problem. The 6v spark is not the greatest as is and when you add resistor wires it makes it worse. I would verify what you have is solid core.

If you have that kind of crud in the carb screen I would also wonder what the condition of the gas in the tank might be. Might not hurt to add another filter when you rebuild the carb.

Not familiar with the 118-68 number. Is that what is on the brass tag?

Clipper Deluxe with 327 engine should have a Carter WGD-2102S two barrel. The 288 engine had a slightly smaller WGD-986S two barrel. 4 barrels are on the fancier or senior models with 327 or 359 engines.

Several places sell kits for the WGD carbs. After looking at a few, if they are current prices posted the cheapest listed price I found was Max Merritt at $50. Kanter was $55 and a couple of other well known rebuild shops were both between $60 and $70. A variation of the carb was used on other makes but I don't know how readily you would find that old a kit at a modern parts store. Napa doesn't list it.

Daytona has excellent kits that many of us have used and can recommend but they don't list prices or sell online. You have fill out and email a form or call and speak with them directly so they can be sure that what you are ordering is correct for what you have. They will quote a price then.

No brass tag, just what is on bowl assy. Wires are carbon core. Using in line filter and fresh gas ran into gas can going to the pump. Still have to clean the tank out.

I've sort of lost track of details, but if I recall this trouble all started as you first attempted to drive the car home. Had it been sitting for a long time? Does the old gas smell really strong/rancid? Old gas is absolutely a death wish: not only will it gum up filters and carb passages but it will cause the intake valves to stick making a restart, usually on the next morning impossible--the intake valve stems get covered with a varnish that when cool will keep the intake valve from closing, or from closing in a timely manner.

Can't remember, did you do a compression check?