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I want to add a push button start switch to my '48. I am trying to determine which wire I am supposed to route to this button. Would it be the wire from GA on my Ignition Switch that ultimately goes to the starter?

Thanks in advance.

John

The wire from GA is power when key is on. You could add a wire from GA to the new switch and run another new wire from the switch to the solenoid terminal. If you have the smaller engine with a solenoid having a single small start terminal it is fairly straight forward. If you want to keep the existing carb switch active just add the new wire to the solenoid terminal. If you want to completely stop the carb switch from operating then remove the existing wire from solenoid and add the new in its place. Tape the old wire well and tuck it aside in case you or another owner wants to return to original.

If you have the 356 engine with the large Autolite solenoid and two screw terminals, it is basically the same except you will have to find which screw terminal is from the carb switch and which is providing the ground. If you can't distinguish the old wire colors it is a bit involved. Because of the way ground is provided thru the generator you can't trust a meter to ohm the wire unless it is disconnected at both ends. You will need to disconnect one wire at the solenoid and place a volt meter on it. Try to start the car. If the wire is providing the ground there will be no or a very low voltage on the meter whereas the wire from carb switch will read 6v.

Alternately you could keep it simple and add two new wires to the push button. Run both of them out to the carb switch in a fashion similar to the photo. Use some wire loom to protect the new wires and, if you want to keep both switches operational connect the pushbutton in parallel at the carb switch. If you want to eliminate the carb switch, remove the wires from the switch and splice to the new wires.

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I disliked the accelerator operated starter switch on my 47 Custom Clipper, and added a push button switch. To do this I simply disconnected the two wires on the carburetor switch and re-routed them through the cowl wall, through an existing grommet, and back to the bottom of the instrument panel. Then, I connected the wires to a 2-pole push button switch which I mounted on the bottom ledge of the panel. Did not have to cut or add on to the wires. If the present owner wants to change back it is an easy job to reverse the process. I would think your 22nd series Packard would be like my 21st series Clipper.

(o{}o)

Good suggestion. If the heater blower wire is not in that portion of the loom it may be long enough to run back inside. You do give up the option of using both switches though.

Howard, thanks. Your method allows the driver to use either switch, where my fix only allows for the use of the button.

Personally, I prefer the starter button over the carb switch as the button gives more flexibility in starting the engine. With the carb switch the accelerator pedal is always fully opening the throttle, many times this is not needed or desired.

I think the carb switch was one of those features that tried to make operating an automobile more easy, but in the long run did not work out. If one is dedicated to the original method, then it certainly works; however, I think the button is a better way to go. As they say: "To each his own."

(o{}o)

My 47 2106 came with a starter button the previous owner had installed. I found that it was an inconvenience if, God forbid, I stalled the engine...esp on a hill. With the push button there is a lot of coordination needed..brake, clutch, starter button. With the carburetor switch, you just push down on the accelerator. Probably best to have both switches for maximum flexibility.

Bob, I agree.

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What is the problem with the accelerator pedal/carb switch?? My question is does it work all the time, even with the key off?
John

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On Packards that used the accelerator pedal start, the engine will not crank with the key off. On later right or left position ignition switches used from 23rd series on, it will crank with the key in either accessory or run position. The coil only gets power in the run or right position so even though it cranks in accessory or key to the left it won't start.

Once the engine is running, if the adjustments of the start switch mechanism at the carb are correct the starter will not engage again until the engine stops and vacuum is lost. If the mechanism is out of adjustment or the vacuum section is not functioning it is possible to engage the starter with engine running. Cars with the 356 engine and senior 51-2 models went a step farther with a starter safety circuit that takes ground away from the solenoid once the generator is putting out voltage. With no ground, the solenoid can't pull in so a prevention to accidental starter engagement.

IMO, biggest downside to the accelerator switch becomes when the engine fires but fails to catch on the first or second try. Each time you press the accelerator you pump gas into the carb. Finally it becomes flooded in addition to whatever the reason was it didn't catch the first time so you have to sit and wait for gas to clear before trying again. With the pushbutton, should it not catch you can always crank the engine with the pedal not moving and clear the flood quicker.