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Memory tells me that several years ago a PAC or PI chapter persuaded an oil refinery to run a batch of oil with high zinc content for our older cars. I cannot find it in my references. Can anyone help me? I believe the source was in Ohio.

Thanks -
Bernardi

You may be thinking of Classic Car Motor Oil

Classic Car Motor Oil

I changed to this oil and my car quit making tapping noise.I think it is a good product.

On the shelf at just about every auto store.

lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additiv ... -break-in-oil-additive-tb-zinc-plus

Per the Lucas website and their data sheet--not for passenger car use--

They'll get over it.

amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gas ... -synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA

Amsoil Z-rod may work for this application too.

Not really an answer to the question but back in the '70s or early '80s, I used an oil with graphite in it that was "trending" at the time but proved unpopular if for no other reason than it was black so one couldn't tell when it needed to be changed but apparently for some it broke down into a sludge - a problem that I never had.

After adding it to my 1954 Patrician's rebuilt 359, the mileage improved and I had to slow down the idle. As it worked into the engine, the idle got faster and faster until I didn't even have to press the pedal to go 30 MPH! That oil, along with a set multi-point spark plugs from JC Whitney, are still in the car today but will have to be removed before it's started again for the first time in decades. I just came across a couple unopened cans of the oil in my shop.

Thank you one and all for the information and help. I decided to go with the Classic Car Motor Oils rather than mix my own. 10W 30 would have been my preference, but 15W 40 is offered.

Hemmings now offers three weights of synthetic and synthetic blend oils with Zinc in the range of $50 for a six pack, plus shipping. That is just a little rich for my blood. It is my understanding that a rope seal such as a rear main seal will not hold synthetics.

It is my understanding that a rope seal such as a rear main seal will not hold synthetics.

I don't know that that is an absolute given or not, I suspect it is not. But synthetics will often leak at a point where a conventional oil will not.