Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

The gage doesn't work. The previous owner had the tank flushed and coated and the unit fixed but it still didn't work and he thinks it should be grounded to the frame. I would appreciate your thoughts.

Yes, the tank needs to be grounded.

It wouldn't need extra from the factory but with the work done it could need one now. Even if it has a connection running an extra ground wouldn't hurt and would be good insurance. Finding a place to attach is going to be the issue since the tank is mounted. Some tanks have a convenient wide flange on the tank side that can be drilled and a terminal and wire attached, but if yours does not, some have sandwiched several inches of bare wire between the tank and the cushion material on one of the mounting straps making sure the tank has good contact with the wire. The other end of the wire is then screwed to the frame or body.

The opening where the sender inserts needs to have a tight metal to metal connection on the top outside the tank too. That connection is usually provided by the twist on retaining ring pressing down tightly against the gauge flange but it would need to be verified there is nothing on the gauge flange preventing a solid contact.

There is also a possibility the wire between the sender and gauge could be open. Unfortunately it is very hard to work on the sender or do testing because with the tank mounted there is very little space to reach the sender from the front or any opening in the trunk floor to access it.

I had to run a ground wire when I had my tank cleaned and coated. I ran it from the strap bolt that fastened to the frame and ran the wire to one of the screws that held the sending unit.

The 54 tanks have no screws holding in the sender. Just a retaining ring. As shown in my blog, I have a self tapping screw and a wire with a terminal attached to the flange on the tank. The other end of the wire is to a large terminal that goes over the bolt that holds the tank strap.

The steel fuel line generally provides ground but is in most cases insufficient and even gone entirely if rubber lines are used in place of the steel. It is always advisable to add a better ground than came from the factory.

I think Kev is correct. Now I will have to go under Best Other and see where I ran the ground wire. It has been a very long time so cut me some slack.

Is my 53 same as 54?

If I attach it to the strap Bolt I'm not sure I can access the sending unit for the other end of The Wire is any place on the frame okay?

Tanks are the same from 1952 to 1956 and no need to actually ground the sending unit itself as the lock disk should cut into the metal sufficiently for that. The point is to ground the tank but before going through the work, just take a basic ohm meter measurement from the tank to the frame to see if it's even necessary. If it shows zero ohms, or close to it, the tank already is grounded.