Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Quote:

As I said earlier, the most important thing to do before rebuilding is careful and meticulously noted disassembly. For instance,

? Never, ever unbolt and open an Ultramatic torque converter without first marking it... preferably scribing the flange. It is important so that you can re-assemble the two halves back in exactly the same location. Don't do this important step and you'll have problems later.

? Take notes and photographs of bolt positions and put the same bolt back in the same position when re-assembling.

? Be sure to note if a bolt (for instance in the bell housing) is specially made to allow fluid to pass. Other bolts will fit, but will prevent fluid to flow as it should and therefore affect how the transmission works (or IF it works).

? Never assume the Ultramatic (especially if previously rebuilt or opened) is with bolts and parts all in the proper positions and with the converter properly reassembled.

? Don't use home-made gaskets or try to fudge things using sealer out of a tube. Recipe for disaster.

? Never use torque specs from pre-1956 Ultramatics on a 1956 model. Check the specs. The latter Ultramatics are all aluminum and you'll be using the wrong torque and will strip the case threads.

? Since your radiator is missing, there is a good chance that your transmission cooler may also be missing. 1955 Ultramatic coolers seemed to rot out faster and easier than 1956 coolers. Either way, you'll need to check on this component and the fittings and lines leading to it. Important to make certain the cooler has no internal leaks (these can allow water or coolant to mix with transmission fluid... or worse, enter the transmission). I've also seen people just delete the cooler or don't know any better, only to end up with a malfunctioning Ultramatic later... which usually gets blamed on the poor transmission. Ultramatics on V8s are extra sensitive to being kept cool, particularly in hot climates. Don't overlook this important fact. So many of these transmissions have been destroyed just by ignoring or not knowing these issues.

There are other things to do and remember, but to me these are the most important.

Leedy thank you for the time you took out to write that post those words you like gold to me

Let me put my two cents in I have owned a 1955 400 hardtop since 2003 and in my years of ownership i have learned a couple of things about these cars firstly DO NOT REBUILD THAT ULTRAMATIC IF IT IS DYING! My Ultramatic have up the ghost in 2006 when it was 51 years old. The first one i had rebuilt by a good transmission shop in Phila Pa (where I live) lasted all of 2 years before it blew up. The next one I had rebuilt lasted about 6 months I drove it to the 2009 Gettysburg meet where it died, the rebuilder ( I wont give out his name because I don't think it was his fault) replaced it with another Ultra under warranty and that one lasted 2 years. I was passing a transmission shop in my hometown after this one self destructed and saw a man that looked to be in his 60s working on a 1940s Mercury. I asked him do you know anything about Twin-Ultramatics? He said is that the Packard automatic? I said yes could you rebuild one? He turned to me with a furrowed brow and said listen I remember those when they were new they were a pain in the ass to work on then and you cant pay me enough to work on one now! So I purchased the bendsents conversion kit for the 700r (GM) transmission. My car is a pleasure to drive now and get way better performance and especially gas mileage. The other thing I have to say the Bendix treadle vac is a reliable master cylinder the problem is ppl out there rebuilding it who do not know WTF they are doing-if you need your unit rebuilt send it to Ross Miller and FOR GOD'S SAKE DO NOT SENT IT TO WHITE POST RESTORATION!

Experiences vary, knowledge and skill of the rebuilder a big factor. I've accumulated many thousands of miles since and have had nothing but absolute satisfaction with my rebuilt Twin Ultramatic.

m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1600588239998285&id=100001413739481

This is a key gun...to unlock any lock..

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youtube.com/watch?v=mWErjXO3SYg&sns=em


youtu.be/n71uznRJeu0

Interesting but I wonder if that method would work on a Packard lock because there are no pins to get kicked up to stay clear of the cylinder -- just 5 spring loaded tabs that stick out one side of the cylinder. Maybe the rapid motion of the thing would kick the tabs clear and they would stay raised but don't know.

The Basco locks have the key go thru the middle of the tabs where the centers are of varying height. The different key protrusions and notches raise tabs against their springs lifting them the required amount so ends are level with the cylinder and no longer block rotation.. If the key lifts a tab too far the rotation is blocked by that tab extending out the second side and if not raised far enough rotation is still blocked on the first side.

If you know of a video showing the picking of that type lock it might benefit more than one of us.

I printed out all service literature on the engine, twin ultramatic, electrical, and suspension. Thanks for having that available to download.

The car is at my mother's house and I live in an apartment so I get out there about once a week, if that. 3hour drive roundtrip.
I went this Sunday and got more time and pictures with the Packard.

Before I post pictures, am I doing something wrong because all my last pictures came in side ways after posting them???


I am going to go with the twin ultramatic for now but I can get I very good deal on a toploader 3 speed and I'm up to having a manual transmission, I'd prefer it. But I have to stick with what I got. With no key I can get the shifter to make 3 or four clicks in Neautal and Drive, but I notice the lever in the PN'D'LR won't click into Park or Revesese.

Can anyone please post a picture of their engine compartment because that will help me out due to the lack of parts I'm missing,thanks alot

I will be back soon