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1954 Packard stick shift: car stuck in 1st can't be pulled backwards because rear wheels locked up, even with clutch depressed fully. Are there 2 problems: 1. locked in gear by linkage and won't shift out; 2. brakes locked up, or Whas up?

If the car has been static for a while. especially in a humid environment that could promote rust, there is a good chance the clutch is not releasing despite your depressing the pedal, and that the brakes themselves are not locked. That's why blocking the clutch pedal down for long storage was a common recommendation back in that era and some of us still practice it today. It's a common-enough problem in the hobby and if you try the search function you may find some prior discussion of it. The solution normally requires some sort of "jogging" the driveline, rocking back and forth, carefully jolting the engine with the starter motor, etc.

But first you might want to raise the back wheels and make sure it's the clutch that's stuck and the rear brakes are not locked.

My mechanic thinks it is the transmission locked out of reverse because the car will drive forward in all three forward gears, but will not roll backwards or go into reverse gear. What say you?

I guess I misunderstood you symptoms as you stated earlier. You said stuck in 1st gear but now OK in all forward gears?

Does your car have overdrive?

Yes, it does have overdrive! Thanks. It will go forward in all 3 gears, but will not back up. We have tried rocking it, without success.

I have never engaged the overdrive, as the car has been under restoration and only driven very short distances of a mile or less at a time.

Since clutch appears to work for forwards and with clutch depressed still won't reverse, than as your mechanic says, it's further down the drive line, probably trans. He's probably already diagnosed properly.
If not to your satisfaction, then need to further isolate problem. Something is likely broken in the driveline, that won't let it turn backward. As O_D says, you jack up rear and check brakes*, etc. Then disconnect the drive shaft and rule out if it's in the differential or in trans.
Any telltales? does it make grinding or other noise?

I doubt it's just the linkage, per se, even if that's messed up, it should roll backward with the clutch depressed regardless of what gear it's in, unless something peculiar to this year, like a reverse lock out system? I'm not familiar with this particular model. Generally, you only find those on shift mechanisms where it just won't allow shifter to go into reverse gear, but it still should roll back with clutch depressed. If clutch was frozen and not disengaging as O_D mentioned, you'd have problems switching gears, aka power shifting, and jumping when starter engaged.
* - Remotely, I could see a worn or frozen brake or ebrake, that only fully engages in the reverse direction, but that's doubtful. But there'd be a wheel noise or brake heat up going forward. Easy to check that by pulling rear wheels as indicated and testing the ebrake operation.

The transmission and OD has an interlocking mechanism to prevent reverse from being selected if the OD is engaged. There could be a couple of things wrong and simulating a false engagement and locking out reverse.

If the solenoid was removed during restoration make sure it has been reinstalled properly so that the ball on the end of the solenoid actuating plunger is positioned in the slot in the pawl. It takes a bit of manipulation to extend the plunger and work the ball end into the slot. If it was not engaged properly, the plunger pushing at the end of the pawl could be forcing the pawl in far enough to simulate engagement.

Make sure there is not an electrical miswire so that the solenoid has been activated even though the car is standing still.

Make sure the lockout cable can move the lever to full travel. When knob is pulled out, the end of the lever on side of OD should be forward and almost to its stop. With knob pushed in the lever is to the rear and while not quite at the stop, it is well past straight up and down. Sometimes the cable housing separates from the bracket under the dash and when working the knob, it is the entire cable moving and not the lever on the side of the trans. There is also a retainer at the end of the cable housing at the OD so make sure the cable assy is held tight there too.

If the trans and OD was disassembled then there could be an issue with the way parts were put back together and the lockout mechanism is not positioned or working properly.

If you cannot resolve the issue external via linkage or an obvious problem etc there is a Borg Warner published service and training manual available for download in the literature section.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/BW_OD.pdf It is not Packard specific and as far as the electrical diagram is concerned you would need to refer to the 54 Packard wiring diagrams for the correct schematic. The mechanical part and trouble shooting items are applicable to Packard.

My OD cable came loose at the dash and here is a link as to the clamp I use to fix it. I got the idea from Howard.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... lat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=20

Wes