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Les Schwab said they looked online and tightened them to 100.

I'll put it in the book to torque them 85 - 95. I don't actually have lugs bolts.

Because my wheels were so bad, the lugs could pull through the holes, so we cut and welded studs to the hubs and use really large nuts to hold the wheel. A little bit overkill, but the wheels will stay on.

So at 5K the Diamondback radials were rotated and the brakes adjusted.

I'm hoping there's a trick to installing a new remote control lock spring for the RR door without having to take it apart.

Is there a 'trick' to it?

The solution I was given by a Ford guy where I bought the springs is to pry up the tabs, which can break pretty easily, on the side that will retain the dog-leg spring. There are 2 retaining holes, left and right, so using the photo, the spring goes through the right hole for the right door and vice versa)

Pry up the retaining cage after getting the tabs straight and wriggle the end of the spring through the retaining hole. Flatten the spring which will snap in place. He said many of the used ones he's found at swap meets are welded on the back because the tabs were broken.

His method worked and I did not break the tabs. I filed the end of the spring a little flatter and a bit narrower at the end that threads through the hole. I used small vice-grips to hold the spring and force it through the hole.

He said heating wouldn't help, so I didn't try that.

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LATCHES: 'Before' pics. Worn square-hole hub of the roll-back cam. Droopy door handles.
First, the hold-down cage is heated and removed. Then the square-hole hub and the roll-back cam are removed and separated. The socket and vise are used to press the brass square shank hub out of the latch piece. Then the one end of the connecting arm is built up and the metal around the hole in the latch housing that was worn away where the connecting arm attaches is reconstructed. Some filing is done after soldering is done to insure that the brass hub pilots into the bores of the latch mechanism. Silver solder was also flowed into the corners of the slightly worn hubs and filed to fit 5/16 square shank snug. Then the latch striker is built up and ground to a smooth curve. Both latch springs were renewed. The latches were installed in 4 doors, including new remote lock springs for the back doors, which had broken.

WINDOWS: This is historic. Thanks to blueprints and using Google Patents to find some extra drawings and explanations, the parts were made, assembled for the front window regulators and installed. The rear window regulators have new gears. Using a combination of remnant parts and shafts from Regulator Roy, the cones were repaired and the shafts shortened, drilled and installed. What a thrill to be able to roll the rear windows up and down.

DOORS: The driver's door is finally complete and assembled. The other doors had some minor adjustments to close better, which now means really solid. Next fall or winter I'll have the hinges for the other 3 doors reworked.

HANDLES: In order to chrome the handles, they had to be dismantled. The convertible handles have very short shafts. Restorations and Reproductions tightened them, so now all handles ate pretty darn straight, except for the locking handle on the passenger side which points up a bit because it got a new internal spring.

TO DO list.
Install Stromberg carb back from Daytona Parts in days
Seal up windshield.
Tighten up rear end.
Pull the heater again to repair its motor and bushings. Its radiator and in/out tubes were replaced.
Top adjustment.

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CARBURETOR: The '40 Stromberg is back from Daytona Parts and beautiful. We're adding a glass dome fuel filter.

GENERATOR: We had some squeaky engine noises which turned out to be the 'rebuilt' generator. I had a spare which I thought was correct and did some research. Turns out neither generator was correct. One and GGU is for a '40 Chrysler and the other a GDZ is for a '40 Studebaker. John Ulrich had a rebuilt GEA-4802A which is absolutely correct for the car. It will be here tomorrow.

Then we can move on to the windshield seal and rear-end work, now pushed to next week.

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I don't think that's a very good idea. I've heard stories of those things leaking, and with the manifold right underneath, you are asking for trouble. I think it would be a better idea to put a filter in line before it starts heading up to the carburetor.

I appreciate the warning, West. There is a spot at the front of the engine where it could go, but it means adding another pipe connection, which we want to avoid. I mean the carb itself is right on top of the manifold and the filter will be as close to it as we could get. (Photo shows current Carter carb.)

We'll make certain it does not leak. It is new and son John is confident the connections will be sealed. It will hang a little over the intake manifold. I have an inline filter back by the tank with the 6v pump and a meter, in addition to the mechanical fuel pump up front which has some sort of filter. I doubt I'll ever have to open the dome to empty sediment. I don't want anything to get in the carb except gas.

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OK, West, you alarmed me enough to check online and sure enough, leaks were reported and reports of fire (different types of later model engines with carb dead center), but these reports were for the cheap Chinese inline glass and plastic fuel filters, connected to hose, not metal fuel lines, and there was nothing about the glass bowl type. I bought this from the largest dealer of pre-'54 Chevys the USA, huge warehouse in Vancouver WA, and I was told they sell lots and lots of them, for '46-58 Chevys including Bel Aire's and Impalas.

Just keep the bowl cinched snug (not crushed) against the gasket. They've had no returns or complaints.

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I have had these on every Packard I've ever owned and never a leak or problem. I even still have some NOS AC units in my stock from on old inventory that I bought out some years ago to add to any Packard I may get that might not have it!

Gosh, millions of cars of that era had a glass bowl fuel filter over the manifold without problems - factory and professional installations were hard-piped and if the car was given good care the gasket was replaced periodically when the filter was cleaned. Fires are most probably the result of sloppy installation and lack of care.

Is Daytona rebuilding carburetors for the public? The bowl will need to be opened up every couple years to change out the rubber gasket at the top of the bowl, it swells up and tends to close, cutting fuel flow.