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Hi

My 36 model 1401 makes all kinds of noise when braking lightly. If I drive it for a while and apply the brakes a few times more firmly the noise goes away (well almost - it still makes a little noise but not nearly as bad).

The shoes have about 200 miles on them and the retaining springs are original.

Any thoughts?

Thank you in advance,
Crin

There are a lot of moving parts in those power-boosted mechanical systems, can you better describe just what kind of noise? Chatter? Squeal? Grunt/groan? Other?

Some things to think about:
-Can you trace the noise to just a single wheel?
-If not, trace to front or rear axle?
-Are the brakes well-equalized?
-Cables and sheaths well-lubricated?
-Bijur system functioning on the linkages?
-U-bolts holding the axle to the springs tight?

Hi,

I can narrow the noise down to the wheels - more so, the driver's side rear wheel. The brakes are fairly well equalized - pulls slightly to the right but not much. All the other items you mentioned are in proper working order - it's like its coming from inside the drum.

Oh, and the noise is like a squeal - low pitch when braking from low speeds and higher pitch when braking from higher speeds.

If I drive it for 10 minutes and have to hit the brakes more forcefully the noise goes away or rather isn't as predominant.

Thanks,
Crin

Squeal is generally a contact problem. If the drum is not evenly worn on the axial plan (bell mouthed), if the backing plate is not even, if the hold down springs are weak, if the shoe table is slightly warped, if the wheel bearing endplay is excessive or is loose.

Chatter is generally loose parts, or distorted drums, except that loose wheel bearings can cause both chatter and squeal.

Given the problem goes away after warm up suspect the drum. It may have a point that contracts more than elsewhere when cooling due to previous storage.

Your symptoms don't trigger anything specific that I've experienced so probably you should pull that rear drum and take a good look. You might however first check the tightness of the axle nut retaining the drum. That era preceded torque specifications but it should be atleast 200 ft-lbs, probably more like 225-240.

Were the drums turned when the new linings were installed? Did you do a full major adjustment after the reline?

Thank you all for your help.

The drums have been turned but I'm starting to think that I should have replaced all the springs which I did not do. For all I know they might be the original ones from 1936.

I also did not go through the Packard procedure after the major brake job nor do I know where to find that procedure.

Other than Max Merritt who else might have all the spring hardware for this car? I know they have it but it's like $125 per axle. Not too bad for senior Packard parts but I bet they get them from somewhere else cheaper.

Thanks again for the help.
Crin

I wouldn't suspect the springs based solely on their age. My '34 has essentially the same brake system as your car; I've driven it extensively over the last 55+ years, more than 40,000 miles and the brakes still have the same springs and brake performance is excellent. Examine you springs closely, compare wheel to wheel, check for discoloration, perhaps rig up some sort of tension test. Sure it would be nice to have new ones, but a failing one should be easy enough to identify.

If no one comes along and posts the major adjustment procedure for 1936 Eight, tomorrow I'll add the 1934 procedure which should be the same, the only difference is that the '34 has driver-adjustable power boost. And it's in the Service Letters which you can review on this site.

PS - left-click for better image.

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Testing the brake springs. I have found that if you drop a spring on concrete flooring (not wood, or floor coverings) a good spring will go 'THUD' and a bad spring will go "TING" I learned that from a shop instructor in the 50"s. For what's it's worth.