Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Can't tell how deep the insulation on the white wire was damaged but if it did not go deep enough for the contact finger to touch the copper in the wire then no problem. Even if it did short, as long as the H button was not pushed the current would go no farther and would not be the cause of the problem in P. If you cannot bend the wires back to ensure clearance then a bit of insulating material such as you have shown will work to protect the wires. Just make sure it is cemented or fastened so it can't drop down in the area where the sector rotates.

Since you said the problem was only happening in park would you verify if the problem ever happens when pushing N. If so I would look at the red wire feeding the start relay. With the way the relay is positioned something could have dropped down and stopped where it might be intermittently shorting behind the relay terminal or maybe the terminal is bent and something might be able to touch the fender.

On the PB leaf contact, more than one have been broken or are weakened and right at the point of breaking. I don't know if there are any repro leaf contacts available but if anyone has done them it would probably be Mr Pushbutton. I don't recall seeing any posts from him recently so don't know if he is online any more or if he made any of the leaf repros as he did the finger repros. If not and no one knows of a better solution, there is a repair using a common subminiature micro switch to replace the leaf contacts but it is a bit more involved. You will need to fabricate and mount a bracket to hold the microswitch. The procedure was developed many years ago by somone in the PI club and might have been published in their magazine at some point. At any rate I am reluctant to post the instructions here. If you want to PM an email address I will forward a copy of the instructions.

well it looks like I'll need another harness and finger assembly. If you look at my 3rd picture above you can see the damage. I didn't notice it at first. Here's a better picture.

I can get a completely rebuilt actuator and motor for $650.
Plus I still need to repair/replace the PB tab. This is getting expensive!

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Many of us have used "Mr. Pushbutton" to rebuild our units to a very high standard, far superior to the Autolite original. If he still provides this service, its very highly recommended and at least as of recently, less than the $ amount you noted. He's an occasional poster here, if you're considering a professional rebuild, I suggest you send him a PM.

The bent finger could definitely cause a problem. If both sections of the sector plate were active at the same time the direction relays would both be active and the motor would not know what to do. Usually the breaker would trip and self reset and trip again. That may be what is happening when you hear the motor clicking.

Also take the sector plate off and carefully look at the separation. I see what appears to be burning on one side. If the insulated spot in the middle was heated enough to burn and there is a significant drop off between the two metal segments that would cause a finger to catch and would probably be the reason for the bent finger. There can be almost no difference in height between the metal segments and the center insulator piece and even with a minimal difference the corners of the segments need to be slightly rounded in order for the fingers to slide past smoothly.

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One thing that can cause that is the sector insulation wore a groove and the finger got stuck.

The fix is to epoxy some phenolic and file it same height and curve of sector.

Can't figure out how to find Mr. Pushbutton on this site. I used a John L. with good results years ago on another 56. He is very knowledgeable and did excellent work. Could he be Mr. Pushbutton?

John L. is Mr. Pushbutton and here is his profile info. Use the button at the bottom of the profile to send him a PM.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/profile/userinfo.php?uid=129

I looked around and found his number from the last time I used him. He no longer sells pieces since he stated if you only do a partial repair it may not last. Given all the problems found with this car I can't blame him. Hence, the higher than past price. Can't say I blame him. There are so may updates that need to be done on this shifter setup. He can repair the PB also. If one tab/contact broke can the others be far behind? I have a call in to the owner. I'll make sure he is sitting down. I'll give an update when it's fixed. Thanks to everyone for all the great help.

Mr. Pushbutton (John Lauter) weighing in, late. We have spoken in the past few days. I don't sell parts individually, based on past experience. I only do complete rebuilds/restorations/upgrades, and yes, I am actively doing them, more than ever. Everything in these units is 63 years old, the wiring is all going south (insulation) and they have all been monkeyed with by the unknowing.
Lubrication is a big thing: these were last lubricated at the AutoLite factory in 1956. There is a bronze bushing in the cap end of the motor with an oil wick, every one I encounter is dead dry. The thrust bearing is corroded together in half the units I disassemble. This adds additional drag/load on the motor, which adds unnecessary electrical load to the car, adding to the "unreliable" stories. This past year I have had the motor brush holders replicated in laser cut brass, and the special set screws in the actuator. I have begun having all steel pieces plated, which adds to the "newness" of the finished product.
Anyone seeking my services may reach me at 56packman@gmail.com

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John, beautiful workmanship and attention to detail!