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Dave, thanks for the info! My own, much more limited experience, indicated that I had satisfactory driveability without it. Several people have also weighed in on the AACA forum that because today's fuels are so much more volatile, it is not necessary. Given that my all-original roof insert leaks, it's a fair weather car for now.

I had wired my heat riser open, because it was not properly cycling. Since I had the manifolds off, I replaced the butterfly with the one I removed, and set the spring to its loosest setting. If it does not cycle freely, and I continue to have problems, I will probably just block it off.

A problem with a disconnected manifold heat riser valve is carburetor icing. This takes place when the ambient temp is above freezing and in the mid- to high-30s. Air going through the carb is cooled enough to form ice inside, especially around the idle ports. The ice blocks fuel flow and the engine will stall. Also, general driveability suffers during engine warm-up. A properly functioning manifold valve will open upon warming up and cause no problems.

Edit: I should have written: "...This takes place when humidity is high and temp is just above freezing..."

Mine is welded shut. No problems at all. I'm in Texas though.

Catching up on your blog... been following.... will post more later

Not too much shop time, but I did pull my spare water pump apart. I was going to paint and install, but it had grease zerks and felt exceptionally tight, so I wanted to inspect it. All looked good, and it still has bushings so I will install the correct oilers. The packing was far too tight, and seemed funky. I have the proper graphitic packing coming, so that will go in as well. Shaft is pristine.

When I install the oilers, do I need to install some sort of felt wick too?

Also, one other random question. The horn had always been spotty. When I removed and reinstalled the steering wheel, it worked perfectly. Now, it's spotty again. Is there some grounding point in the hub that I clean clean?

With Virginia drivers, that loud horn is essential safety equipment, and I need it to work!

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Hank, good to hear from you!

A little bit more done this weekend, but no pictures. The car fought me hard yesterday. Still waiting on parts back from the machine shop, but I did manage to get the drivers side coil spring re-installed. It was harder than last time, but the new shock looks great, and once I have king pins back, I can finish re-assembly.

I found some tie rod ends that I never installed on my 115c project (because everything was tight), so I may install those in the future, if needed. After I test drive the car with the king pins and new shock, I'll service the steering box. I want to do it now, but I'm trying to be a little bit deliberate, so I can tell what each change does.

On the steering gear - it leaks where the pitman arm connects to the sector shaft. I have a replacement seal. Can that seal be replaced without completely dis-assembling the steering gear?

I'm also planning on renewing the lubricant in the steering gear. I picked up a quart of cotton picker spindle grease from Tractor Supply Co. I haven't used it myself, but I've been told by several smart people that it is the best modern option available. After the huge difference it made to renew the gear lube in the transmission, I'm hopeful for a similar change in steering performance. If that doesn't make a difference, the next step will be to adjust the gear per the factory service manual.

Ken, you should be able to replace the sector shaft seal by just removing the pitman arm. Maybe a small sheet metal screw or two in the seal face will give you something to grip on to to remove the old seal. I have never done this job, but it seems like a straight forward one. Ross and/or Flackmaster have probably done tens of these and can better advise. Enjoying your progress reports.

Unless it has some flow properties, I'd caution against using a grease in the steering gear box, stick with a heavy gear oil as Packard recommended. And the reason is that the rotation of the gears will channel" the grease away from the surfaces needing lubrication, leaving them somewhat naked of lubricant for the next turn of the gears. A fluid oil will flow back and rewet the surfaces with lubricant.

Better to replace leaking seals than to use the incorrect lubricant just to prevent leaks. Only use grease in gear boxes where a grease is specified.

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Dave, thanks for the info. This is a very low viscosity grease, with flow properties:

#00 is what is considered a semi-fluid grease (very thin) and is often used as a gear box lubricant in place of gear oil. Most lubricant manufacturers make a NGLI #00 grease.

Ross Miller recommended it to me at Hershey a few years ago as closest to what Packard originally specified. What do you use in your '34?

In my 1934 I use the same as I use in the transmission, SAE 160 gear oil, GL-1. I believe for your car Packard also specified the same lubricant as used in the transmission. I'll be interested to hear of your experience with the Tractor Supply product.

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Dave, thanks. Book is the same - SAE 160 in summer in trasmission and steering gear, SAE 90 in the winter.

What do you use as a modern equivalent to SAE 160? In my research, it seems many feel the SAE 160 of the 1930s is closer to SAE 250 now. I was able to source GL-1 SAE 90 at NAPA, but I've had less luck finding either SAE 140 or SAE 250, GL-1 rated, anywhere.

EDIT: Found this very helpful article, written by Dave Czirr, on the PAC forum:packardclub.org/forum/download/file.php?id=13&mode=view

Again, all credit to Dave Czirr for this content.

Break break.

Bump (or should I say beep?) on the horn question. Anyone have any insight on my intermittent horn issue? I've tried everything I can think of.