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Anybody try this stuff?

I have some and am thinking about doing lab work on it but I haven't decided how to do the test.

It may not affect the temperature gauge but if it works it should reduce boiling and coolant use. I suspect it is a high temperature surfactant. They claim up to 20 degree reduction in coolant temperatures.



WaterWetter?

Unique agent for cooling systems that doubles the wetting ability of water

Rust and corrosion protection allows for use of straight water in racing or reduced antifreeze levels in warm climates

Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature

Use one bottle for most passenger cars and light trucks, treats 3 to 5 gallons or 13.2 to 15.9 liters, vehicles with larger cooling systems should use two bottles, small cooling systems should use 1oz (3 to 4 capfuls) per quart

Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL? and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems

Satisfies ASTM D2570 and ASTM D1384 corrosion tests for glycol-based antifreezes

Contains no ethylene glycol

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I think measuring temp vs time in a flowing system would be the lab experiment. It's unlikely to do much in a static calorimetry run.

Hello all, I have changed all of my vehicles over to water Wetter and where possible have removed most of the anti-freeze. I simply add Water Wetter to the radiators once a year without any draining. It's main benefit in my opinion is the anti corrosion property. Not sure about how much cooler they run as I still have thermostats in place. It appears to be as Tim surmises a super surfactant. I no longer use anti freeze in my older radiators as anti freeze apparently leaches out solder in older radiators. I have been using it for around 5 years and it is excellent. I am using it in 9 Packards, 2 R-R, one Bentley, 2 Nissan Patrols, 5 Rotaries ( 3 Mazda, 1 NSU, 1 Suzuki RE 5). I also use it in my Dozer, Grader, backhoe and tractors. It is not cheap but I believe that it works well for me anyway. It is quite eerie to look down and see all of the clean cores without any dirty water or corrosion product.
Best regards, Peter Toet

Peter;

Somewhere in my Model A paperwork is a plot of how much lead is 'consumed' per unit time by the anti-freeze. If I remember correctly the data differentiates between various concentrations of the anti-freeze. I was messing around cars for 50 years before I ran into that data, and always thought that anti-freeze was superior in every way over water . . . not so. I know I used a 2/3 mix in a brand new BrassWorks radiator and that item disassembled itself in about 7 years. Since then I'm using a 1/3 mix.

I've also searched the web for some technical information on Water Wetter but haven't found anything yet.

Is freezing an issue in Canberra ?

dp

Canberra is at 625 metres elevation and it can get down to -9 C overnight in winter. I have never had a freezing problem with my vehicles. My understanding is that if you have to use anti freeze then the Green antifreeze is probably the best for older vehs. but there is plenty of info on the net about coolant types. This is a link to a good read and includes advice on water wetter in "Other notes from other Various Internet users".

donsnotes.com/home_garden/auto/antifreeze.html

Peter T

If "leeching" or dissolving of lead solder is a concern I think the best place to get advice is your local water department.

Here in Michigan the government of Flint hatched a scheme to soak General Motors for water revenue via using the Flint River as a water supply rather than buying water from Detroit. The scheme backfired and cost billions of dollars because the water was junk and was dissolving the lead pipes. So water departments use some sort of chemical to prevent that. When General Motors saw the scheme as a ploy to rip them off they built their own main link to Detroit and dumped Flint as a supplier. Crime doesn't pay.

So now instead of road repair - the roads in Michigan are so bad I only drive to and from work as in a prison work release or DUI restriction - we have to pay for the crooks in Flint and their schemes to rip off the taxpayers.

As far as testing this water wetter stuff, the first test is to check the boiling point. After that put the stuff into super heat. It should have lower super heat.

Another no data, no information consumer product stirring curiousity. Usually, a tip off.

A combustion engine cooling system is designed to rely on solid/forced liquid heat transfer at the engine block and forced liquid/flowing ambient air heat transfer at the radiator. The resistance of the radiator fins is negligible, but the open area/fin area is. (More air flow = more heat removed.) The heat transfer coefficient in the block is greater than that of the radiator. So improving/lowering the surface tension of the liquid side, is not much help. No harm apparently, but money for what?
As far as glycol vs water, the heat capacity of water, 1, is greater than that of glycol, 0.75. So the more glycol you add the less heat removed "en masse" or per unit liquid. Mainly there to prevent from freezing by "eutectic" freeze point depression and does increase the boiling point as the glycol boils higher, 387F, vs 212F. You do not want boiling of any kind in the block, that's lower heat transfer. causes hot spots.
Most "antifreezes" have a corrosion inhibitor package to prevent corrosion in all parts. Lasts about as long as the recommend change interval so unless you don't change it, no need to add. Aluminum in long service may require inhibitor additive dosing.
Water does not have any anti-corrosion properties, actually enables it. Distilled water will slowly "dissolve" metals, and tap water w/ hardness, will deposit scale which lowers heat transfer. This product may just inhibit scale formation, if no deposits observed. So choose your coolant habits wisely, not based on marketing.
My "strategy" if you add regular "antifreeze" and change every ~4 years, you'll find adequate protection and cost effective coolant. But all automotive fluids are increasing in price, so may have to adjust your schedule. Can't leave it in there forever, glycol slowly oxidizes to acid, but requires air.

One of the claims they make is lower cylinder head temperatures. How do you make a claim like that? You install thermocouples and run them into a data logger. On the package they claim "Dyno Test Results". The only significant number is for water plus the Water Wetter. They don't mention what kind of motor or cooling system is being used, but I don't think those numbers are a fraud.

What bugs me is when they say - Change cooling system annually. That is a crock for anything except tap water.

As mentioned, if this product is doing anything it should result in less need to add water to the radiator in those low pressure Packard cooling systems. If it is acting like a diesel phosphate additive it will reduce block erosion, but that has to be determined in the lab.

I haven't seen anything condemning this product. I have seen a lot of vitriol as regards those waterless coolants being pushed by some perhaps paid for endorsers.

That aside here are the ingredients:

SECTION_ _1_ -_ INGREDIENTS

Di Isopropyl Alcohol Ether 1-40%
Tri Isopropyl Alcohol DiEther 1-40%
Sodium Molybdate 2-10%
Tolyltriazole 1-3%
PolySiloxane Polymer

This material is not known to contain greater than 0.1% of any carcinogen required to be listed under the OSHA Hazardous Materials Standard

Maybe you could get the same result from Kentucky bourbon. That answers the one year flush question. I suppose the sodium part is the lubricant they claim. The variation in the portions does seem to point to the snake oil conclusion.

Hello Tim and Fish n Jim, I fear that both of you are basically correct that it is probably another "snake oil" job. However, I have been very happy with the product and have not changed any of the radiator fluids for around five years since I have started using Water Wetter. I add the full bottle each year. I noticed that about 4 years ago my 1928 533 started to weep from the core so I took the green anti freeze out ( not using water wetter in the 533 at that time) and put in tap water plus some Risalone block sealant and water wetter. I have not had any leaks or overheating in five years so it works for me. I also have a 1934 R-R P11 which had been stored for 50 years with no coolant and an alloy head. lots of corrosion product powder everywhere. Filling with water after purchase resulted in 3 litres of water in the sump overnight. I was quoted over $A70k to get it running ( cylinder head is approx $38,000). I passed on this and used Risalone and Water Wetter. Fast Forward three years and I have no water in the sump. I do have to give it the occasional "fix", a 250ml dose of Risalone block sealant if I notice Cyl head bubbles in the water, but I can look down and see clean cores in clear water and it runs super cool for a 7.8 litre heavy limo. I look forward to your test results. Regards from Oz. Peter Toet

For years they used alcohol as an antifreeze in the winter. One reason for the low thermostats used. Alcohol would boil off easily....