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I'd be interested in hearing what other people think as well. I'm trying to decide the same thing. Is there a benefit to either material?

Nice work Stewart on getting the interior cleaned out. I got sick of trying to do it myself and had a guy sandblast it. Now I find sand literally everywhere. I clean it out and more appears a few days later.

-Kevin

I am not sure the spray on bedliner is all that great either for a sound absorbing material or for insulation. I used some in the trunk of the 47 under the flocking and it is actually a bit thin and needs several coats to get a decent buildup. I used a sound and heat absorbing product inside the car that was made specifically for auto use. It is similar to the thin mylar reflective material you get at the home center for attic insulation but was not that impressed with it either. Might be good for temperature but I doubt it will be very good for sound.

Several have used one of the Dynamat butyl pad configurations with good results but for a large area such as the floor and roof the stuff is expensive.

Ross mentioned a product available from Amazon that is similar to the Dynamat. He uses it quite often and it is less expensive than Dynamat. There are several versions with some having both good insulation and sound qualities.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... .php?post_id=193652#forumpost193652

I did a rolling restoration on my '70 Vette. It was a noisy and hot car (inside) to drive. When I did the interior I used Unfaced Reflective Roll Insulation from Lowes (other have the same material. I did the entire interior of the car. I would make patterns using brown craft paper then cut from the roll. used 3M spray on adhesive to hold in in place. It cut the noise by over 50% and did the same for the heat issue. It worked so great that is what I used on interior of my '901.

The people at Packard might not like the approach, but it is out of sight. The $45 for a roll was much better than Dymamat.

I guess I was thinking something like this LizardSkin from Summit.
I'm just don't want to clean the back seat area becasue I'm getting lazy. I'm wonder if this stuff can be put over top the original coating. I agree that insulation like stuff is probably cheaper and better.

There was a TV car show a few years back where the restorer was doing a pitch about the glories of Lizard Skin before and during the time a rep from Lizard Skin was applying it to the car they were working on. I guess it works OK but aside from being a bit expensive the stuff needs to be carefully applied so it has the proper thickness. As I recall there was some kind of mil gauge the rep was frequently using to ensure the stuff was going on properly and evenly. If it was too thin apparently it did very little and too thick was a huge waste of product and I think he said a long drying time. The application seemed a bit fussy to me and also believe there is a companion product that needs to be used after the first dries if you want both sound and heat control.

Looking at the inside of your car, if it were mine, I would get it sand blasted. Then seal around all the seams that sandblasting could not get to with a urethane caulking compound. Next I would spray (2 coats) or brush (1 coat) on Rust-Oleum. Install the stuff I mentioned above.

If the body is off the frame, I would sand blast it use Rust-Oleum primer and then paint with a good chassis paint (Try TCP Global).

I used LizardSkin on the roof of my Packard, both the thermo insulation and sound deadener. The stuff sprays easily with the proper equipment. It is water soluble and accidental overspray can be wiped off witha damp cloth but if you let it dry, you'll need to grind it off. Used a product called HushMat on the floors and firewall, cheaper than DynaMat. Tried to use Hushmat on the roof of another car and it pealed off and I had to remove the headliner to remove it. Like LizardSkin for the roofs.

Sand blasting the interior is no longer an option. I put the body back on the car 2 years ago its not leaving my shop to be sand blasted now.

I spent a couple hours yesterday and today cleaning the remaining insulation from the rear seat area and the truck. I had been using one of those pneumatic needle scaler but found out that low pressure hammer chisel works much better at removing that crap. I do still need to use a wire wheel over most of it.

My plan now is to re-seal the seams, roll and/or brush on a couple coats some rust-oleum paint then cover the floor and ceiling with some sort of adhesive insulation made for purpose.

There are still some small bits and pieces of the original insulation in places but I am not going to worry about making it perfect. The rust-oleum will seal what little is
remaining just fine.

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This 55, 400 is for sale in Columbus OH.
Is this White Jade and Topaz?

If it is, I've been looking for an good image this color combo for a while. This is the direction I am moving toward on my 400.

The only White Jade and Topaz cars that I have seen so far have been parts cars.

I love the white body.

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The 400 looks like paint code KN, agate and topaz.
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