Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Yes, It seems our cars are the same.I didnt see the Ultramatic script on yours however.Has your car got the Ultramatic? My trim code is 71a I dont know the difference.It still says Grey Bedford cord stripped.Really its felted wool. Brian

The Briggs body number is the number on the metal little plate that is attached to the firewall near the voltage regulator.

The Theft Proof number is the large embossed number on the firewall above the heater box. It usually starts and ends with a triangle.

The Vehicle Number (VN) is the number either on the patent plate (or simple metal plate 54-56) that is attached to the drivers door jam in later models, or cowl in earlier models.

Then you have the Engine Number which is on the block (not the casting number/part number on the head).

So those are generally the four ID numbers for most Packards. I don't remember when the use of the Briggs body number plate started. Possible when the patent plate moved from the cowl to the door jam.

Briggs #s started when Briggs took over body production from Packard (1941) and ended when Briggs stopped (1954). Briggs #s should typically match or be within 25 numbers of Packard's VN; large differences in the order of tens of thousands usually means a factory-renumbered car, especially with the -9- and -5- bathtubs.

Thanks Big kev and Owen,Great new info for me.I will have to write that down for my records.It seems mine is in error.thanks again. Brian

I think the Theft Proof number is the most important to have written down for insurance purposes. It is really the only number on the car that is impossible to change without major metal cutting. The Briggs and Patent plates can be removed and the engine can be changed out. But the Theft number is always with the car unless someone cuts up the firewall.

Just excellent advice, Kevin. What I've done is to have the appraiser include the # on the insurance valuation documents I submit to get my insurance. Even just a good clear photo of the # is good protection.

Brian,

I am getting very close to ordering the material from RSSI.

DO you recall what lengths and widths of material you ordered?

Dale

Dale,
What I found to be a fairly good substitute is the black
rubber type mat available from Harbor Freight that is used as tool drawer pads. It comes in sheets about 16"x24", is about 1/16" thick and very pliable. It is usually against the left wall as you enter the store where the lathes and drill presses are. For fasteners on the passenger side I had to use regular 5/16" staples. On the driver's side, which originally had steel drive rivets, I used 1/4" x1/2" plastic rivets 7/16" head diameter in black whick came from Ace Hardware.

Casey,

Thanks for your experience. Brian sent me to RSSI for material.
My access panel in the right fender has the staples. The left fender splasher is secured with a butterfly style pop in fastener.

Dale