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« 1 2 (3) 4 5 »

Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#21
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Frank1951
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I want to update this previous post. After much searching, I was able to located a distributor testing machine just like the one in the service manual. I put it on the machine and discovered there was a short causing a break in the electrical flow. I am not exactly sure what the problem was but in my tinkering I believe the points were grounded to the plate incorrectly. I now have spark to the plugs. But the car still does not start.

After I installed the distributor, I turned the motor over and got a backfire situation so I turned the distributor around 180.

Is it possible that when I had the starter rebuilt some wires may have been crossed to make it run backwards such as if it were a negative ground. Anyway, what direction is the distributor and crank supposed to turn?

I am stumped.

Posted on: 2009/3/10 19:54
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Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#22
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HH56
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Dist rotates counterclockwise Firing order 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4.
From drivers position, engine also rotates counterclockwise.
There are no motors on that car that will rotate backwards just from changing the battery polarity.

Posted on: 2009/3/10 20:06
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Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#23
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Frank1951
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Thanks. I will keep grinding away on it.
Frank

Posted on: 2009/3/10 20:14
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Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#24
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55PackardGuy
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Quote:
Quote from HH56:One possibility is the braided wire inside dist that connects points to terminal block on side of dist.


That little braided wire has caused more people to find themselves "stumped" when searching for a spark. If you have such a beast, you can buy a new one for cheap, or insulate the one you have. If it makes any contact with the wrong thing inside the distributor, or is frayed to the point of an "open" your spark goes bye bye.

Posted on: 2009/3/10 21:34
Guy

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Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#25
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Frank1951
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What would happen if I try to start the car with a 12 volt battery? Would the spark be stronger or would it destry something?

Posted on: 2009/3/10 21:42
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Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#26
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HH56
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It could be done but don't think I'd recommend it because it appears you already have some electrical issues so no sense adding more.

Unless your car had a proper conversion to use 12v you would have to isolate the rest of the car while you tried it. That would require disconnecting or bypassing or changing some things. 12v to some components and there would be damage, blown lamps as the least of them.

Posted on: 2009/3/10 22:07
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Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#27
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Rusty O\'Toole
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To find out if your timing is 180 out, remove the #1 spark plug, the one at the front of the engine. Turn the engine over slowly. When the cylinder is coming up on compression there will be a "woosh" of air out the spark plug hole. Keep slowly turning until the timing marks line up. Now check your distributor. Put a piece of cigarette paper or cellophane between the points. Turn the distributor slowly forward while gently pulling on the paper. When the points turn loose of the paper, lock the distributor down. That is the moment the spark fires.

OK now go over the plug wires and make sure 1)the rotor is pointing to #1 and 2) all the plug wires are connected to the right plugs. It is very easy to get them mixed up especially #4 and #5.

It is possible to start your car with a 12 volt battery. Make sure you turn off the lights radio etc including the dome light. Put the 12 volt battery in and take out the 6 volt. Be sure you have the battery + ground. Start the car but if it does not start right away do not grind and grind the starter, it could overheat. Give it 10 seconds and let it cool down.

Incidentally it may help to squirt about a tablespoon full of oil into each cylinder. This helps the rings seal and can make the difference between starting and not starting.

If you do all this the engine should fire that is, if it has compression and gas.

Posted on: 2009/3/10 23:02
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Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#28
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HH56
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Rusty has some good suggestions but if you do try 12v I'd just caution that as soon as you turn on key, the BAT & OIL idiot lights will probably blow unless you remove the bulbs--door courtesy lights also. Also, didn't you have an electric fuel pump installed?? If so, is that still working?

Posted on: 2009/3/10 23:09
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Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#29
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Phil Randolph
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Easiest and safest way to jump with 12V is to turn hook the pos jumper to ground and the neg jumper to the starter side of the solenoid (key on of course). Doing it that way only the starter is getting 12V and not the rest of the electrical system. In effect you become the solenoid.

Edited to add that this procedure would be for only getting the car started for the first time not for everyday use.

Posted on: 2009/3/11 6:17
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Re: 1951 Starting Problem
#30
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Owen_Dyneto
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Phil - when using your method the owner should first make sure the original battery polarity hasn't been changed!

Posted on: 2009/3/11 9:12
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