Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

On a King Seeley gas gauge, how does the capillary tubing connect to the head unit? Mine is disconnected, but at the top of the head unit is a brass fitting with a small tubular extension coming out. Does the capillary tube slide into that then everything tightened for a compression fit?

Also, anyone know a supplier for King Seeley fluid? I understand a fluid with a precise specific gravity and resistance to fading is in order.

Here is a place that sells the fluid.straight-eight.com/product/king-seeley-hobson-fuel-gauge-red-fluid/

I do not know if Packard followed this layout or had exactly these parts but here is a generic bit from an old Motors Manual on the gauge operation.

Attach file:

---

  K-S liquid fuel gauge.jpg (308.30 KB)

Thanks. I was able to get the old fitting off the head unit, and after inspecting I concluded the tube was part of the fitting and therefore, Max Merritt will be receiving $60 from me for a replacement line. Very interesting this hydro-static gauge. Looks like the industry only used them 5 years then went to electric sending units.

[i]Looks like the industry only used them 5 years then went to electric sending units.

For good reason, might have been better if they had abandoned the idea 5 years earlier.

The best part of this design is that Ukrainian hackers can't hack it and plant malware in it.

BTW, Straight Eight sells just the small ferrule that is soldered in place. No need to run the whole line.

Well, I tried to fill the KS fuel gauge and I knew I had a problem when the fluid rose to the top of the reservoir without registering in the glass vial. I pulled the gauge out and deduced that it was all clogged up with dried fluid/corrosion over the last 35 years. I filled the vial and reservoir with brake fluid for a couple days without any success and just swapped it out with PB Blaster. I've read online some folks using muriatic acid, but was wondering if anyone has any success with clearing out the gauge with a secret sauce.

There are many good formulas...Around Southern Arizona, we tend to mix Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone at a 50/50 mix...Works pretty well. Ernie in Arizona

Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is usually my solvent of choice for removing grime. It tends to liquefy petroleum-based solidified matter. It may take a few rounds of soaking. Don't use on plastic/bakelite parts.

After several days of soaking without any progress, I decided to buy a new reservoir and sight glass from straight-eight. Nothing seemed to break through the corrosion/dried fluid. Looking forward to installing it today.