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I believe it's green as well. That's on my list as it doesn't work on mine, but I think that's due to the paint on my repainted dash. It works if I ground the switch case with a separate wire.

Also, I think it only comes on with the parking lights if I remember right.

Thank you again, Kev. For front and rear lights, apparently no one makes an LED replacement for the #1133 which was for the brake and license lights lights but I haven't looked too thoroughly yet.

For the headlight, you can just replace entire unit with a sealed LED bulb. I didn't go LED, but bought sealed halogen headlight bulbs from the local parts store.

High beam light is red. Turn indicators are green, so is the gear selector. I don't know about the ignition light....mine has an aftermarket ignition switch on it without a light.

All the other instrument lights are clear and unfiltered. They sit in carboard tube housings to keep the light from bleeding too much.

If you do find LEDs that work I would be interested to know what they are. Are you running 12V or 6V?

-Kevin

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Kev, I’ll indeed be using LED headlights that look like vintage incandescent bulbs but they are temporarily out of stock. As soon as new stock arrives, I’ll get a pair. Most of the 6v LED headlights I’ve seen have an odd look to them making them unsuitable but these could easily pass for original lights.

Kevin, my car is and will remain 6v positive ground and I am finding that there are several bulbs that are unavailable in LED, such as the 1133 used for the backup lights and license light. I may be able to find a substitute, though and am working with a company that has a wide selection.

I'm not sure how much Packard work I'm going to get done this time but the good thing is that the third quarter of the insulation has been done and the last quarter will be done in a week and a half! Even without it all being done, it has made a major difference in the it was nice and comfortable inside so I had no idea that it was 35 out until I went to leave this evening! Tomorrow morning the last new and better insulated door (with upper windows) is also being installed when the ones here before were cheap and paper-thin.

So the first order of business when I get all the preparation done for the last insulation is to remove the power antenna as it is apparently stuck partially up and is too tall for the car lift above. I took the nut off already but have to go underneath to remove the bottom bolt that attaches it to the lower edge of the fender. I hope there is room to get it out since I can't lift up the car more than it is but if not, perhaps I can check the motor from below and get it working enough to lower it. I found an NOS antenna in my stock (center in the photo) but may or may not need it. I am not sure what the other two are but likely the one on the left is not Packard.

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I managed to get the portion of the shop to be insulated all cleared on Monday so now I can play a while before it’s done on the 13th.

The antenna is now out and the reason for needing to get it out is evident in the first photo below. Of course, the plastic fender piece was totally stuck and wouldn’t budge so had to be broken off. That’s okay because at one point many years ago it had been machined down a bit to improve its appearance.

The antenna itself also did not co-operate, especially not with the car sitting down on all fours and no room to lift it so the antenna had to be worked out by taking off the motor to give some extra room. I can see why the radio gave only static too as the cable connector was not attached. The motor itself was totally seized so will need a rebuild or a replacement but I did get it somewhat freed up. Not enough to run but I didn’t really try either.

Tomorrow if there’s time I want to change the ignition switch if I can get the bezel to turn. I know how to do it but it is being stubborn! I have a rebuilt switch needing only the car’s existing lock tumbler installed into it in order to make the swap.

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Try as I might, I cannot get the ignition switch bezel off. Nothing to grip it by and it doesn’t budge trying to turn it by hand when wiggling, pushing or doing nothing to the switch behind. Even using a thin rubber jar opener pad to add grip doesn’t help. Any ideas?

The wave like spring does not have much give and is very stiff so it will take quite a bit of pressure pushing the switch inward toward the dash at least 1/16" to get any looseness for the bezel. While unlikely, I suppose it is possible a wire or something has slipped between the "ears" on either side of the switch or the light housing and the dash metal which would hinder any movement. The bezel has two "bumps" which fall into recesses on the switch when the bezel is in the locked position and it would appear would need the 1/16" to fully clear.

On some items where there is no easy way or a tool able to grip I have had luck wrapping some sticky tape backwards around my thumb and finger so the adhesive is facing outward. That way the adhesive is able to grip the item. If the tape feels insecure and wants to slip or slide on your fingers during the removal because the adhesive is facing outward some double sided tape should work since it can grip both your finger and the object.

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Thank you, Howard! I actually got it off just before your post appeared. I knew it loosens counter-clockwise but, when it wouldn't move, I tried the other way but this time it must have sensed my determination so it decided to co-operate! I know I'm anthropomorphizing a Packard but at least I haven't given it a name!