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I have just about had it with that heater valve. I made one of the contraptions posted earlier. It worked well enough to get it somewhat straight again but trying to bend those stupid tabs back over knocks it out of shape again. That $100+ dollars for a new one is sounding better every day.

Dumb question.
Below are the two fan switches. The one on the right is for the front fan that I rebuilt a couple month ago. The one on the left says rear fan.
What rear fan?
Is this for an under-seat heater? My 400 does not have one of those and never has.

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It is for an underseat heater -- or if the car had an optional rear window defroster and no underseat heater it could be used for that too.

Usually if the car did not have either option the left space had a dummy knob that did not turn. The knob was mounted on a stud that was essentially a screw which went thru a blank filler piece that fit the depression in the chrome in place of the labeled pieces.

Here is the illustration of the blank space from a Clipper manual. The only difference was if on a Packard the knob was the senior style.

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My 400 must have been pre-wired for an under-seat heater. One wire went to the heater fuse and the other just ended at an unused connector. I'll just clean it up and install it for looks only.

I got the heater valve back together. I used a shop press with just enough pressure to push it together. I don't have all the external parts back in place yet but the hard part is done. I don't know if its a good test of not but I filled both tubes with water and it held water (with no pressure). I hope its OK.

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I finally have a title in my name. Just in time to pour some more money into this project.

The tornado's path in Kentucky this past weekend ended about 40 miles due south of me. It was a rough night.

Have been walking around the hay fields and cow pastures surrounding me picking up debris that blew in. Found a page from a photo album. The wife has already tracked down the family. It traveled 135 miles to get here.

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Congratulations on the title and glad to hear that you are well after the disaster! Very nice of your wife too for tracking down the people. Maybe that's all they have left so it's a wonderful gesture.

Been sanding on the primer coat that I sprayed in October. It is looking good.

I have been concerned about the "turn signal connector" that connects the wire harness to the steer column. I don't think trying remove the original wires and reusing the brass connectors is going to work for me and I don't really want to connect the new wires to the ends of the wires if I can avoid it. So, I am thinking of replacing both ends of this plug with a modern water proof connector shown in the image below.

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Sounds like a good game plan.

I tabled a door today. First time I have done anything with them in a few years.

There are rust holes in the corner but surrounding area seems solid.

There is heaving pitting under the Reynolds wrap.

There was a collision at some point in its history as I removed some bondo from the center of the door.

The forward edge is bent inwards as if someone had forced the door open to far.

There are three 1/2" holes punched into the very bottom of the door. I am guessing someone though it needed more drainage.

It sounds like a lot but it isn't any worse then the rest of the car was. Looks like fun.

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While you have the door and tools out also look carefully in the circled area for any fatigue cracks. On hardtop doors when the glass reaches the end of travel and abruptly stops moving the regulator tends to flex the panel in that area because the motor is still trying to drive the mechanism. Have seen cracks on doors that start at the very top of the panel where it curves inward toward the glass and work down. Also have found a few around the slot and hole where the center bolt is located. You might think about some reinforcement even if you don't find anything that looks damaged.

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Flex can also be a problem on the interior panels for the rear quarter windows in the 2 door hardtops.