Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I feel yur pain!!. Have spent two years trying to get my 2126 super clipper started after a rebuild. Initially, a poorly wired starter solenoid was found shorted thru the case..Fixedit. But the motor was turning really slowly. I ordered the 3EH battery but in the meantime, I picked up a standard high amperage 6 volt battery. Tried starting with the new battery. Engine seemed really tight almost couldn't turn the fan by hand with the plugs removed. Put some ballistol lubricant in the cylinders and let it sit for a few days. With the plugs removed and fuel line shut off, I wouold turn the engine over for about 15 secs twice a day. After a week, Hooked both batteries up and put the plugs in. It turned over faster and fired up with a few squirts of gas. Disconnected the second battery and it turned over and started again today cold. After rebuild, things might need to work in a bit...be patient...its worth it. it was 55 years since I parked the car and this was the first time it started while installed and after the (^&^*&# ignition wiring was sorted out...sweet:)
Others might have more technical background but this worked for on my '47 7 passenger sedan.

I agree with Owen and Don. We adjusted the valves on our 1949-288 with the wheel and hatch removed and sat on a little stool...worked great. No joke making sure the oil pump is primed and pumping. Check to see if the valves are close since the engine is not starting and then do as Owen suggests once the engine is running...Ernie also in Arizona, not far from dp.

Ignition related issues I had on my 47 356 which had a rebuild and a long sit before an initial start, was that after a lot of cranking without starting the plugs -- even though new -- had become moist and fouled from all the unburned gasoline and possibly the fresh oil layer in the cylinders. After doing a good cleaning and drying they began to work and the engine finally started.

Another issue worth checking might be that the points have oxidized and are conducting poorly because they could have been closed and sitting there heating as they passed current. If the ign switch was left on during long starting attempts as other things were checked that is a distinct possibility. A quick pass with a point burnisher would not hurt anything and might even help.

Thanks for the help.
Here's what I did:
The battery cables were new and ordered from Kanter so they are the right size.
I bought a new battery.
I scuffed up the engine for a better ground.
I had the smoking starter repaired.

I checked the compression with a manual gage, meaning I has to hold the gage and crank the engine over. All cylinders showed the same, about 60 lbs. I'm sure it is more but that's all I could hold!
I hooked up the distributor vacuum line. That is the only vacuum line on this carburetor. I moved the sparkplugs 1 spot. I retimed the distributor.
I shot starter fluid in it and cranked it over.
The engine started! I was surprised!

I put 2 gallons of gas in the empty gas tank and started the engine again.
It ran great until the carburetor started spewing gas! So I shut it off.
The carburetor is in a shop getting checked out. I had it rebuilt 3 years ago and I'm finally using it.
When I get the carburetor back, I'll reinstall it and run it. I have heard let it run at 2000 rpm for 2 hours to break in the cam and motor.
Thank for all your help getting this running. I'm excited!

20 minutes should be more than enough. Those valve springs aren't for 8000 rpm racing. At the plant new motors are hot tested for mechanical faults and shipped.

If the motor is tight repeated warm up cycles will prevent excessive heat, but maintaining a constant speed is not recommended.

Do not let the engine idle. start the engine and immediately bring it up to 2,000 to 2500 RPM. Vary the speed by a few hundred RPMs over the course of the next 30 minutes total, stopping the engine after the first ten minutes to let it cool down. Re-start and bring it back up to RPM and repeat through two more 10-minute run sessions to complete the heat-cycle break-in process.

James From
Kanter Auto Products

Got the carburetor back, the bolt that goes to the fuel screen had teflon tape on it and a piece came off and got stuck in the float so the gas could not shut off!
Ran engine for 10 minutes and it got hot, so I shut it off. Let it cool down and reran it for 10 minutes, it ran fine.
Came back a week later and the battery is dead! I put my back up battery in and the engine started fine. I don't know what drained the battery, but we tried to turn on the headlights and I had them on once but I don't know how. When I push the headlight button, nothing happens now.
I also think I can not go from R-1 gear to the 2-3 gear with the shifter.
Then I notice a clicking noise on the right rear brake when the brakes are applied. I just rebled the brakes and there was some air in the system.
So I have a few projects to do before I can drive this car.
Thank you for your help.

Found the problem with the gear shift sticking. I sprayed all joint connections with lubricant and it no longer sticks!
I got to do a maiden drive! It was only down the block and around the cul-de-sac. But I enjoyed it!
The brakes stop the car but they are near the floor. I bled the brakes with no change. I asked around and they said the brakes need adjusting.
I still don't know why the battery is draining, someone said it could be the clock, so remove the fuse and try that.
It's getting closer to driving.