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Thanks, Don. So I should be looking for 335152? It’s called a Pin? It’s good for 120 thru 18th series, so I’m hopeful it will accept both drum sizes, meaning they have the same hub. I haven’t pulled it off yet.

No, that was just a reference. Check the plates to see which one points to the part you need. I wasn’t sure so just picked one in the vicinity.

Hi, again,
Remember Emily Litella from SNL (Gildna Radner)?
Well, NEVERMIND.

Jeff Adkins at Moose Motors is sending me a complete front brake system. Shoes arced to drums, new springs, the whole 9 yards. All I will need do is mount the new backing plates and connect the brake lines.

Seems to me she said something else too but better left off here . . .

I know I said never mind, but I'm still interested in knowing precisely what the official name of that front spindle is called and what the part number is for an 1803. Don pointed me to the steering section, but what is it?

Knuckle?
Wheel Support Arm?

Yes... Steering Knuckle

Thanks, West. Pretty excited that complete brake systems for the front wheels should arrive tomorrow and I can drive again.

LIGHTS I sorted out my light issues, mostly what Howard advised on making sure all wire connections and grounds are solid, plus I had a couple of wires switched (taillight for turn signals).

I took the opportunity to replace my taillight/brakelight left and right bulbs with LEDs. They work great.

STOPLIGHT SWITCH: My stoplight switch on the brake master cylinder is dead. Since I bought the master cylinder from Kanter maybe 5 years ago, I ordered the stoplight switch from them.

I previously purchased what looks like the same switch from NAPA for 1/3 of the cost, but if you put heavy duty pressure on the brake pedal, drops of brake fluid would leak. I couldn't make it stop, so I put the current one back on which has a big hex shaped body.

While I was having other work done at a muscle car shop in Portland a few years ago, I asked them to switch out the hex one for the correct one from NAPA> They said they couldn't get it to not leak and put the old one back on.

So now that old one has died and I want to be sure the replacement switch from Kanter going in the Master cylinder from Kanter will not leak.

QUESTION: What preparation and what can I put on the threads of the new switch that will seal out any leaks under pressure without compromising safety?

I will posts some pix.

Thanks, West. Pretty excited that complete brake systems for the front wheels should arrive tomorrow and I can drive again.

LIGHTS I sorted out my light issues, mostly what Howard advised on making sure all wire connections and grounds are solid, plus I had a couple of wires switched (taillight for turn signals).

I took the opportunity to replace my taillight/brakelight left and right bulbs with LEDs. They work great.

STOPLIGHT SWITCH: My stoplight switch on the brake master cylinder is dead. Since I bought the master cylinder from Kanter maybe 5 years ago, I ordered the stoplight switch from them.

I previously purchased what looks like the same switch from NAPA for 1/3 of the cost, but if you put heavy duty pressure on the brake pedal, drops of brake fluid would leak. I couldn't make it stop, so I put the current one back on which has a big hex shaped body.

While I was having other work done at a muscle car shop in Portland a few years ago, I asked them to switch out the hex one for the correct one from NAPA> They said they couldn't get it to not leak and put the old one back on.

So now that old one has died and I want to be sure the replacement switch from Kanter going in the Master cylinder from Kanter will not leak.

QUESTION: What preparation and what can I put on the threads of the new switch that will seal out any leaks under pressure without compromising safety?

Attach file:

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  LEDlight1158and63.jpg (99.00 KB)


  currentSTOPSWCH.jpg (217.92 KB)


  newSTOPSWCH.jpg (129.02 KB)

QUESTION: Should I use one of these to seal the threads of the stoplight switch? Or should I use teflon tape? What will give me the best chance of it not leaking brake fluid under pressure? Someone, please.

Attach file:

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  threadlock.jpg (92.08 KB)

The combination of steel threads on the switch and the brass threads on the fitting are designed to be self-sealing when in good condition and properly tightened. No thread sealant or tape should be needed, nor should any be used. Perhaps you should examine the thread surfaces on the brass fitting to see if they have become damaged.