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BRAKES. The new system in the front is fab. I did the adjustments according to Ross, including the eccentric anchor bolts.

My setup was a little different from Ross' in that the inside of the anchor bolt was threaded with a deep grove in the center (sorry that's not technical), but I couldn't put a wrench on it, so I used the tabbed end of the brake spoon and that worked. (I couldn't get enough leverage with a screwdriver, even a fat impact one.

videos at
mktx.com/packard/LoosenAnchorBoltLockNut.MOV

mktx.com/packard/TurningAchorBoltwSpoon.MOV

mktx.com/packard/TightenUpAfterArchorTurned.MOV

Then I used a one man brake bleeder because Chuck couldn't make it. That worked just fine, though I may redo it as a check next time he can make it over. I also adjusted the brake pedal nut so the pedal is close to the top.

So now the 120 brakes are gone and the Super 8 front brake systems are installed for the long haul. Another 440,000 miles? And I have a spare set of brake shoes on the shelf.

LIGHTS. New LED taillights are brighter than filament. I tried Ross' suggestion to turn the blinkers on and off at the switch 100 times to clean the contacts, and that really worked. And the new stoplight switch gives me brake lights (where this latest round of updates all started).

So I'm a happy camper at the moment.

Glad to hear you got it all worked out. Was it the eccentric adjustment that was keeping the drums from fully seating?

When I did my brakes I tried to use the one-person brake bleeder, but in the end I found it much easier to just have someone else sit in the car and pump.

-Kevin

It may have been, Kevin, because moving the eccentric half a turn really released the wheel. But I also think it was because everything was so new. I drove several miles today and everything seems to be fine. But just in case I screwed up, I have a backup set of bearings and seals. That's one advantage of having a car that stays in the family. I know they'll be needed someday.

It may have been, Kevin, because moving the eccentric half a turn really released the wheel. But I also think it was because everything was so new. I drove several miles today and everything seems to be fine. But just in case I screwed up, I have a backup set of bearings and seals. That's one advantage of having a car that stays in the family. I know they'll be needed someday.

"TEST DRIVE"Not to beat a dead horse, but I drove to my hearing test and to NAPA putting on about 25 miles RT.

I made sure I had filled the master cylinder near, but not to, the top and adjusted my brake pedal to about an ince-plus of play at the top.

When I got home, as a result of the brake fluid expanding from engine heat, I had almost no pedal at all. I removed a bit of brake fluid from the MC and backed off the pedal adjustment nut a couple of turns.

O BTW my hearing tested normal, or more correctly, my hearing loss tested normal. Light everything else I'm in great shape...for my age.

I have very powerful hearing aids myself! On the brakes, removing fluid to gain pedal travel isn’t an option as the issue is purely mechanical so check the manual and adjust all linkages accordingly and be sure that the brakes themselves are not too tight.

Thanks, Don.
I adjusted the pedal play by turning the nut at the rear of the MC.

What I was referencing regarding the amount of brake fluid in the MC is that it should be 3/8" below the filler neck, below the bottom of the filler cap. Without that space, the brake fluid when slightly heated from engine heat will expand, take up the free play in the pedal and drag the brakes, which will get very hot, hot enough to ruin the drums. I had it too full I think, so I removed some.

It all works perfectly now.

Is the lid of the master cylinder not vented? Can it really build up pressure just from fluid expasion?

It’s on page 61 of the 1940 160-180 owners manual. A note to the mechanic (which I do not claim to be). If the pedal free play is less than 1/4”, fluid will heat up after several applications of the brake pedal and drag the brakes. Yes, there is a vent in the lid of the MC, I’ve cleaned it with a thin wire and carb cleaner. But the ref to keeping the fluid 3/8” below the neck I found in the Motor Manual Brake section. I’m not sure what the role of that vent is.
I’m going to blame Ross’ video for encouraging me to adjust the pedal with very little play because when I did it in a cool garage, the fluid heated up on my first sojourn to take up all that free play. Ross is a super generous guy but that’s what you get for making DIY videos for some people who should never remove a wrench from the tool box.

FUEL TANK: Following the link given on the "Re: Fuel Tank Interchange" thread, I found my way to moparpro.com and a '37-'38-'39-40 fuel tank
moparpro.com/gas-tank-1937-1940-packard/p1898 which I am ordering.
In the Parts Book for '35-'41, this tank's original number is Section 9.300 #326662 which should be a 21-gal. tank used on '38 thru '40 120s and Super 8s before, due to an indentation to accommodate the trunk spare tire in '41, a 20-gal tank was used.
I verified that the Moparpro tank FU-1101 is a 20.6 gal tank.