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Unless you have a new door skin, do not remove the old one. There are tools to
peel back the fold and other ways. If the inner panel is as rusty, it's not going to be pretty. You're better off sectioning and fixing what's there. But you need the proper tools and thin metal welding skills to do that.
Take it to a body shop and let them tell you what condition it's in and cost to fix. I suspect more than one door is this way. Might be better to find a better used door(s). Sounds like the window was leaking or open also to get that much water in the door and if the drains were plugged, rust. Happens a lot as HH sez.
A bunch of people looking at bad photos giving advice to someone that doesn't know how is heading for disaster. I'm not opposed to learning but better to take training or have someone show you.

Hi again everyone,

First, apologies for not getting more photos until now. I've attached some in better light to properly show what I'm dealing with when asking about the door issues. Like said, right now the only holes in the door were there from the original builders. Thank goodness for small miracles.

Second, thank you all for the feedback with this. I figured that I wouldn't be able to get the doors apart but just wanted to check and make sure.

As of now I'm thinking that cleaning out the inside and giving it an ospho treatment will be the best option. However, I am young and dumb when it comes to restoring cars so please feel free to let me know if there is a better method.

Regarding the engine and transmission being stuck, I'm stuck waiting for an engine puller and something to get the big beastie off the trailer. Soon though, hopefully.

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It looks like you need a good sand blaster nd some Ospho to treat it afterward. I’ve seen doors far worse than this fixed this way!

Always best to clean it up to bare metal and then assess what has to be done. I, too, prefer "grit" blasting over dipping. But that requires space adn compressor or farm out the work. There's mixed info on soda. I've used dry ice commercially for some things where I wanted to protect the base metal, but this requires aggressive surface cleaning. What they call "white blasting" in construction lingo. You might find some of that loose stuff will disappear and reveal a hole that phosphate won't cure. But something has to be done to relieve the metal of residual stresses from blasting. Some patching will probably be necessary, if not just to even out the surface. "Bondo" is not long term. "Glass" is better but has issues. Metal repair is best but requires some skill/welding.
Once there's corrosion in the crevice between the two pieces, it has to be coated such to exclude air and moisture or it'll just keep rusting and pop out through the nice paint someday in the future.
All coatings has some porosity, so the solution is multiple light coats, but not too much where you loose detail or coating material can crack.
Sounds like a major investment in equipment or you'll be suffering the "I ain't got one blues". Might not be that bargain, but if it's what one likes go for it. That's how most of us started - out of necessity.
Just make sure it you use a water based surface prep that it's neutralized and thoroughly dried (elevated temp is best) to get any moisture out. Moisture will migrate under the coating and cause blistering.
A good grade of epoxy primer on all the metal after repair will give the best service that's available now. A case where making it like it came from the factory "restored" is not going to last without new metal.

Fish,n,Jim is correct on what he stated,hes not steering u wrong on it,it boils down to how much money a guy wants to spend on something u cant see? to put medal in there is expensive, i just did 2 doors on a 57 Tbird that was just as bad,i sandblasted and then put duraglass on the bottoms,after painted i put grease on the inside on the bottoms,i would fix what u have

Door condition is not that bad. Take to someone who does soda blasting. They will know if it needs sandblasting to clean it up. Get an inexpensive spray gun and a couple saw horses and prime with industrial primer that bonds to the metal, then hand brush POR-15 or similar thick black paint on the inside of the doors.
My front door was far worse. It cost nearly $3000 to repair it between finding a donor door, shipping, fabrication, etc. See this link in the Duchess Project blog at Post #596
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... c.php?post_id=193942&keywords=Donor+door