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Quote:

Looks like either the same one or a very similar one. I bought mine years ago from the UK before they were available here so likely from the same source. However, if the diagram was for the same unit, I see nothing to make it click like mine does.

The one I used is the one from ledlight.com

ttps://www.ledlight.com/flasher-6-vol ... att-positive-chassis.aspx

It clicks. You need to ground the 3rd terminal separately, I attached it to a screw in the firewall near the toe plate.

I have a solid state flasher. Not the problem. Problem is with the LED's that I got from ledlights. Need another source. If you have some that work, please let me know where you obtained them. Thank you.
Lee

I sent you a DM with some more of my experience.

Hi PDon,

I finally got a hold of 2x new solid state 6 volt LED flashers. 1x is from LEDlights.com and the 1x is from Dynamo regulator in England. Both do look pretty much the same. Both have what appears to be a ground wire. The old flasher is a Tung Sol P229 D. It was mounted behind the dash next to the steering column of my 54. It does not have any ground wire. For the new solid state flasher is it absolutely necessary to use the ground wire if the old Tung Sol was 3 prong like the new flasher?

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I'm confident that if it was not required to ground them that they would not have included a wire. I would splice an additional length of wire on and put a loop connector on the end then just screw it into the firewall with a self tapper.

Though first you may want to double check what the wire is actually for...

I know if I didn't ground them they didn't work, and it seemed if I tried to use them that way for any period of time things went bad, e.g. it doesn't completely correctly anymore (the ground wire attachment came undone).

Btw, I have sourced 1154's from both LeDLights.com and Bruce Blevins from Mid-Atlantic Packards (the bulb from Bruce Blevins is higher quality it appears), and they seem o.k., bright enough, when I run them from 6V power separately, but don't light up when I plug them into the socket, whereas the regular bulb does. My suspicion is that I have some issues with wiring, the socket needs to be cleaned, etc.

Are you sure that they actually match the socket and the and that they are polarity independent (or have the correct polarity)? It's hard to imagine either of those issues causing one bulb to work and another not.

Proper working turn signals has been one of two areas in supplying LED bulbs to 6 volt car owners that I am still working on solving. The other area is the 3003 bulb for the 33 and 34 Packards and 32 and 33 Cadillacs. Motor City Packards Region of The Packard Club is offering LED bulbs for all 6 volt cars mostly positive ground, but some of our bulbs will work with negative ground. We offer every bulb that Packard used. Many of these bulbs were used by other makes. I have been researching and testing for over 2 years looking for the best bulb, plug and play and highest lumen output. Lumen is a measurement of visible light. We offer 3000K, 6000K, Amber and Red. I too have looked into these digital flashers and am currently testing one. This will eliminate the need to splice a resistor into one's wiring harness. A good thing.
Being a club project, MCP ensures that you must be pleased with our product so if you buy from us and do not like the bulb, you can return it for a refund. Plus you will be supporting the club.
A new product we now have is a solid dry chemical fire extinguisher the size of a road flare. No more steel bottle that needs recharging and inspection needed. If you are interested in either email me and I will send you the order forms.
blevinsb33@aol.com
The number one reason that an LED does not work, when all else is correctly done is a bad ground. There will be an article in the next CNB about LED bulbs and this issue.

I checked the polarity and it was correct.

it SEEMS like both bulbs have the correct ends for the socket.

My only thought is that the bulbs are pretty sensitive to having very clean connections. I could make them light up at the battery but not through the socket.

The incandescent bulb, of course, doesn't care if you are at an effective 5 V or 6V, it just lights up, though at a dimmer level. An incandescent bulb also tends to "self clean" it's own contacts as the current flows through them.

That's my working theory, but I am trying to find the time to troubleshoot this stuff.