Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

If it turns over really slow that's not compression, that's the starting system.
Probably two things:

1) You may need to get the starter refurbished. Kanter and Max have rebuilt starters, or these guys would do it:

Buchannan Auto Electric

2) You probably need to clean all the connections. 6 Volt systems are really sensitive to having a good ground. This includes the big red ground wire (preferably 00 or 0) that goes from the battery to the block.

6 volt turns over much slower that what your would normally expect.

But, 6 volt also expect very heavy guage battery cables. Not the normal smaller 12v battery cables.

6 volt anything is always heavier wiring. Generally, half the voltage (6v vs 12v) requires twice the amps. So the wring needs to be heavier to support that.

Check your battery cables, ground straps and make sure they also have clean connections.

Thanks I will do that although battery ground for the cable going to the battery the ground it's not a cable it's a strap it's an actual ground strap from the block to the negative post on the battery so I don't know if those can be saved I mean it looks really good shape actually surprisingly but yeah I know I'll look into the starter and clean up all the connections thanks I appreciate it I know this isn't the actual form for that but I just thought I'd throw it out there

This is actually the first time I've ever worked on a Packard or 6 volt system so I'll be in and out of this forum for a long time to say the least so far all the information I've gotten from you guys it's invaluable I really appreciate it

When you have a free afternoon, take a read through my 54 Clipper project blog (see below). I've basically gone through everything and I started knowing absolutely nothing. It may be helpful.

I will absolutely do that thank you

Whether ground cable or ground strap, they still use gauge designations so nothing smaller than 0awg should be used with 00awg preferable. The negative line to the started solenoid (your car is positive ground) should also be at lease 0awg and preferably 00awg.

As for the fuel pump, I would advise removing all the steel plates and other hardware from the side of the engine, then set it up the way it should be with the proper mechanical pump. After that and if you think it's needed, add a small electric pump back by the tank. Personally I've never found any need for electric pumps and even after sitting for a couple months (and after replacing the battery) by 1954 Patrician started right up the other day.

Kenken, I highly recommend starting a project blog for the car, where all your work can be organized into one thread. You'll find (as in this thread) that you will get a lot of help for every question that comes up.

I also highly recommend reading through BigKev's '54 build. I have saved dozens of links to various posts from his project, so that I can go back and reference them as I work through my own car. His thread has been invaluable to me.

Lastly, like Don said, a properly rebuilt or refurbished mechanical fuel pump will do great as long as the rest of the fuel system is in good shape. I have no electric fuel pump and have never needed one. My rebuilt mechanical pump has never let me down.

-Kevin

Quote:
Maybe not. It is kind of hard to see the entire area but it looks like there might be an AC compressor taking up some space the fuel pump would occupy. If that is the case and you want to keep any AC setup probably the only option would be an electric pump. If there is an existing electric pump and it is not working then replacement pumps are relatively inexpensive. Many of us have installed an electric solenoid type pump near the tank that can be controlled by a switch under the dash. In the case of having an existing mechanical pump the aux electric can push fuel thru the mechanical pump and a filter to aid in priming the carb after a long sit where fuel might have evaporated. This prevents a lot of cranking time in bringing fuel up to the carb.

If the mechanical pump is gone then using a low output pressure electric pump plumbed directly to the filter and carb would work just as well. Airtex makes a 6v low output pressure solenoid style pump several have used. Model E8902 has a 2.5-4.5 psi output and is for 5/16 lines. If a mechanical pump was installed in the future, as long as the electric is a solenoid type pump, the mechanical can still pull fuel thru when electric is off and it could revert to an aux backup mainly for the priming function or even to assist in the rare cases where vapor lock became an issue.

So I ended up taking one of the fuel lines off it's a short when it comes from the tank to the electric fuel pump that was there now looking at the fuel line it doesn't look that bad it's tarnished but I don't think there's anything else like inside the thing so I wonder if it can just be cleaned and what would be a good way to clean it