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Thanks, Howard for the info. I saw that some other forums recommend neats foot oil. But I want something that is going to last longer. So I'll go with the silicon oil and some grease.

Next question:

There is a channel inside the door at the rear (yellow line) where the window frame rides in. Currently, it's just pretty rusty and I need to pull it out to clean it up. The window frame has rollers that ride in that channel.

Was this channel lined with something or flocked?

If so, what's a good replacement?

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I "think" there was some kind of felt or flocking liner. But its all gone now.

If so, I wonder if something like this could be used to line that channel.

Felt Strips

According to folks with more knowledge than myself, the advice is the clean the channel and paint it. No rust-causing, roller-clogging felt.

And if vibration or rattling becomes an issue without the felt maybe use real flocking instead of the strips. I have had bad experience with those self adhesive type strips that have a strong connecting substrate wanting to creep with repetitive slides against them. Even rollers running across them having more pressure in one direction could do the same thing.

Once they start to creep and bunch up it becomes problematic as further sliding or rolling just tears the material until you have a real mess. With real flocking the fibers may get smashed but as long as the adhesive is not gouged away taking the fibers with it they will just become flattened.

Managed to get the other door stripped of rust and painted.

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When I was out in Ohio this past weekend with Patrick Aldrich, I took some pictures of his wife's 1937 120-C Convertible Couple which has the same top assemble as my 115-C.

The first picture shows what the "B-Pillar" wood post assemble looks like. But assembled on the car, its hard to understand all the complexity of this part.

Luckily, Gary Kulp was nice enough to loan me an original from his 115-C so I could attempt to duplicate the part.
It took me a bit to understand how this "sandwich" of parts comes together. Luckily the channel this part sits in is still on the car and with that, I now understand what all the cuts outs and reliefs are for. It anchors the main portion of the top irons and also the center steel bow. It's all held together in that channel. The circle reliefs are oversize and just provide space for the nuts.

There is a small picture in the Parts Manual for a convertible sedan, which is very similar, that shows how this all sandwiches together.

Also, the little weatherstrip retainer on the bottom is interesting to see. Never even knew about that piece.

The stainless channel is a dead ringer for the piece 1940-41 Ford Stainless I just ordered for the A-Pillar to Vent Window weatherstrip. So I'll have to order another piece for this as well.

I'll probably try to copy this in some cheap wood first before I go a piece of ash to many the final versions.

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Thanks so much for those great pictures. I have all those parts for mine and was very careful to document them when I disassembled but admit that the weather strip piece left me a bit stumped. I figured it must stop on the retaining strip as there would be nothing on the top mechanism arms to hold it and so it is great to have that confirmed in your images. I was VERY glad that the wooden pieces on mine were in great shape because as you point out, they are very complicated to copy.
A note too on fit. There is a joint where the top arms fasten to the locking castings at the front Header that allows the top arms to move fore and aft to dial in the fit with that rear weather strip to the door window in the raised position. Nice to have that a matched alignment. (Ignore my home made wing nut, she is missing one so I improvised!)
Bob J.

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Bob, you're welcome.

That front Bow casting and the steel oval bow are what I am currently trying to chase down.

Hopefully some leads pan out soon.

Also... the wiper transmission to motor retainer clip arrived. Not sure why they send two. But I guess I have a spare.

The leather washers also arrived. I found using a hole punch to enlarge the center hole to 9/16" worked to allow it to slip barely over the end of the hub. They are still currently soaking in oil. So will post some pictures when I try to assemble everything this weekend.

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