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The headlight support is attached to the radiator housing via three bolts...at least the cover/retainer plate is. If I pull those three bolts out it looks like the mounting post sits in a kind of rubber cradle. Do I have that right? I ask because I was planning to remove the radiator and not remove the whole headlight assembly. Does that make sense?
While I'm on the subject, it looks like the radiator and shell need to come out as a unit? Do I have that right? Also, it looks like the radiator/shell combination sits in a kind of cradle and is retained at the bottom with two studs that each sit in a rubber mount and are retained with pinned nuts. It is retained at the top with the two struts that go to the firewall. In addition there are the six headlight bolts, three on either side. Is there anything else?

It's been more than 40 years since I removed mine, but as I recall you've got it pretty much correct.

Yes, you remove the radiator core, shutter assemby and shell as a single unit, leaving the headlights in place. And the radiator/shutters/shell is HEAVY!!! Have some help available.

Yes, remove the 6 acorn-headed bolts that secure the headlight assemblies thru the shell to the support assembly behind the shutters. I also recommend you loosen the headlight adjustments, move then outboard for a little better protection from accidential damage, and then cover them with some padding.

Yes, there are two threaded studs that protrude through the front frame cross member. And the cradle rests on the cross member on rubber pads. And obviously remove the radiator hoses, hood and hinge, and the upper radiator support rods.

Have fun and be careful, it's cumbersome and heavy.

An engine lift may help to support the front radiator assemble when you remove it.

Thanks guys for the info. When you say heavy, do you have a guesstimate of how heavy? Is it something two guys can handle?
Also, does the post for the headlight support just sort of telescope out of the way?

I removed the assembly alone, but I was a much younger and stronger person back then. I recommend having a helper available both for removal and installation.

When the acorn-head bolts are removed, the horn support triangular plates can be pulled back from the shell and if the original assembly was done correctly there will be just enough clearance for removal. If not, just loosen the lock nut and retract the assembly.

No need to loosen the headlight assembly where it attaches to the fender.

Thanks for the information. Most helpful.

Bill

Owen, on a prior inquiry I was asking about cleaning the inside of the radiator. I think you advised oxalic acid. Being unfamiliar with what that is I looked it up and its listed as a wood cleaner? Anyhow, I was wondering why you recommend that instead of something like CLR or Zep? Will those type of products damage the core?

Thanks Bill

Oxalic acid was the active component in duPont's Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner which is to my knowledge NLA. It's one of a family of chemical compounds with an unique affinity for certain iron compounds such as are found in rust and hard water scale. If you're curious, Google "chelate" or "chelation".

To recore these early radiators can be very expensive and I'm not willing to take risks with mine. I've never used CLR or the other material you mentioned in a radiator; I'd only use materials which are or were previously available specifically for that purpose.

You might try a product called RydLyme. I have used it in marine applications to remove rust and lyme deposits in heat exchangers which are made of cooper and brass. It cleaned them to like new condition in about 4 hrs. Look them up on the web and/or call them for advice.