Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

H.E.

I've done this job more than once.

The critical measurement on the head is side to side rather than the length. They all seem to bow a little down the length but that straightens out somewhat if it is not too much.

Chase the threads on the studs and the nuts. if you have time , order hardened washers from Mc Master or someplace, this will make the torque hold better. I have also read about finishing the bottom of the nuts with about #300 or so sandpaper to make friction on the bottom of the nuts consistent .

Torque according to specs in stages.. Torque hot after first running the engine and then at may be 50 miles , 100 miles and 500, or something like that . The long heads take a number of tightenings to settle.

Best

John Harley

Good Morning…After all is complete, Packard recommended torquing once a year. These long straight eight heads require on going love. Ernie in Arizona

Since one of these heads seriously lacks anywhere to grab it, as a matter of interest has abyone ever lifted a head using the spark plug threads? Like a piece of box tube with 8 holes and bolts into the plug holes, attach that to an engine crane?
Couldn't see a problem just lifting the head, assuming it unsticks ok. A Chrysler Slant 6 has 2 x 7/16 UNC holes in the head, that's how yoiu lift the complete engine.
Anyone tried this?

Back in the day there was a tool that served as a way to grab onto the head. It was a bolt that screwed into a spark plug hole and had a loop on the top to grab with your hand or fasten a cable or chain.

Another tool we used was a piece of bent strap steel that had a bolt through it. The bolt screwed into a spark plug hole and the bent strap served as a handle. It worked very well.

Your suggestion is a good one, but you probably only need two of the bolts, in front and rear spark plug holes.

I busted the porcelain on two old spark plugs, knocked the ground off and ran a four inch bolt through the plug and a piece of wood. worked great!

That’s an interesting thought with the spark plugs, I do have at least sixteen kicking around from all the electrical rule outs when Penny gets fussy!

Another quick question, the nuts don’t need to be removed through some de-torquing process for they? I planned to just pull them off in reverse order if only to be cautious, but making sure they shouldn’t be all half loosened then fully removed or something strange.

I have never detorqued the nuts, but am sure some will say it's best to do it.

There is no reason at all to do that as you’re going to be replacing the head gasket. Compressing the gasket evenly is the reason for the torquing process.

Well, good news is the head otherwise came right off, I was expecting way more of a fight. I used plastic spatula things to wedge into the sides first then when it started moving and spitting coolant I climbed into the engine compartment and stood over the engine and picked it up handing it to someone else. Thermostat housing was one handle and the air cleaner mount bracket was the other. The scraping, brushing, prepping then commenced, and is ongoing.

Is there a best way to get all the remaining antifreeze out of the block? Should I try anything for this now before I put the head back on? Here's the reason, it's the bad news, I might use a ceramic block sealer (thinking irontite) because of a discovered intake valve to piston block crack I have neither space, time, or money to fix right now.

I am aware the best way to deal with a crack is to have it stitched or otherwise have a good shop address it. My #4 piston and valves are less than ideal, I'm thinking this must have been in the full open position when it was laid up 30 years before I owned it and got some moisture in there. It's clear that any real repair will need to include new valves and re-sleeving and might not even make sense based on the chamber pitting. Unfortunately this can't happen now, car needs to run and move of it's own accord. I need to try something if this ends up being part of the coolant loss. My only hope is that this looks like it was a long term thing, so hoping the sudden massive coolant loss and smoke was the head gasket leak and this can survive as is for more time, key word being survive. My long term plan might be to someday find another good engine as a core and maybe have that rebuilt and swap down the road when the reserves are refilled, I have access to a garage, and/or a non-gravel and non-shared driveway. It's a big setback and just might be the end of the line depending on what happens after I put it all back together.

Some years ago my 1952 Henney-Packard Nu-3-Way had a couple cracks in the block which were repaired at the car's location without pulling the engine. A couple valve seats and cylinder sleeves were installed on the spot and at a reasonable cost by a local Napa shop with mobile equipment. Napa may not do that anymore but I am sure you can find a local shop that can do so.