Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Quote:

Not sure what you are calling ignition bypass but in 55-6 the solenoids do bring in a second contact to bypass the ballast resistor and give the coils a straight 12v to provide a hotter spark. This is done to kind of offset the voltage drop when the starter motor is turning. As soon as the solenoid drops out the 12v is gone and coil gets the usual 8 or so volts thru the ballast resistor. That circuit is not present on 6v systems.

I wasn’t the one referring to it but just commenting on someone else’s reference. Personally I’ve never heard of a ballast cut off in the solenoid. On cars with the resistor, it is typically the ignition switch that cuts it in and out. Out in the Start position for a hotter starting spark and IN in the Run position when it doesn’t need such a hot spark.

A number of starter solenoids located on the starter do have an 'I" terminal that bypasses the ignition resistor when the starter is operating.

A number of remote starter solenoids also have an "I" terminal that serves the same purpose.

Here's the bypass Howard was talking about (I believe).

I couldn't find a spec on the starter wire current but I think the wire is 16awg like almost all the rest, so I wouldn't figure more than 10 or 15A. Did you ohm the relay to see if it has continuity still? Perhaps got a bad relay.

Attach file:

---

  Screenshot_20230618_174859.jpg (62.91 KB)

That is the circuit. The extra solenoid terminal is a small one on the end of the large Packard pinion shift solenoid and on Clippers, is next to the start terminal on top of the smaller solenoids. On both lines, a light green wire runs from that extra terminal to the ballast resistor terminal where the pink wire going to the coil also connects.

Quote:
I haven't as the symptoms indicate an intermittent problem so I figured doing so would not be conclusive. It has started normally since and also got stuck engaged again.
One other data point is that following the initial incident where I shut it down with the neutral select switch, when I afterwards checked the relay (looking under the dash for a visible problem -- fortunately I'm still a slender build) it was very hot to the touch.
After the first incident when it happened again I just quickly yanked the relay from it's socket which disengaged the starter. (Reason being I still had to drive the car home from where it first occurred over seventy miles from home.)

You said the relay is under the dash so if it is a standard Bosch style cube type 30/40 amp relay and this is the circuit you used, providing the ground and connections are solid so the relay pulls in strongly and nothing else was added to one of the terminals and is being powered thru the relay, there is no reason it would overheat unless the relay was defective.

In this circuit the only thing that would keep the relay energized is a stuck ignition switch. That is a too often seen problem in the 54-6 switches in models with the large solenoid. If it is a NOS ign switch and not one of the "rebuilts" that were being offered at one time then that should not be the cause of the problem. Some of the rebuilt switches are questionable and if that is what you are using then keep it in mind.

Attach file:

---

  starter solenoid relay.jpg (37.76 KB)

It was an unused, still in the original box NOS switch, not a rebuild. (Cost a bit more but I thought was worth it.) The relay is the standard 40A automotive cube, also new, wired with ring terminal connections. The circuit simply uses the ignition switch start terminal to energize the relay and the relay carries the current from battery to solenoid (via the Neutral Select switch) -- pretty simple. There is nothing else powered from the relay, just the starter solenoid. The starter itself seems to work fine.

Just to bring to conclusion, no more sticking starter -- it's been working fine. Likely the first relay was faulty and another 40A replacement would have resolved it too.