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I forgot to ask.
I cannot locate the bracket that holds the emergency brake to the underside of the dash. I have everything else just missing the bracket. I am not even sure what it looks like. Does anyone have an image they can share?

Congratulations. When you recover from that aggravation and have time to gather your wits maybe you can post a brief rundown of what and where you found the body bolt locations that affect it the most and whether you needed to raise or lower a shim to make the body go in a certain direction. Am kind of curious if it was lowering the body in the middle or tilting the cowl to raise the rear of the door or maybe both that did the trick.

Here is the emerg brake handle bracket.

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Congrats on getting the door figured out. Like Howard, I'd be interested in what you ended up doing with the body shims. That's good information for the next guy who does this.

-Kevin

It looks like you're making progress. As you assemble more body and trim parts, you'll probably need to make further adjustments. It's best to have the car sitting on its wheels on level ground when doing sheet metal and trim alignment. Adjust tire pressure to spec, and check to see that the springs are close to equal. Cars all flex, especially full size ones. Things like hood alignment, deck lid alignnment, hood hinges and latches, etc can be tricky. (Not to mention doors)
Patience will get results. It is rarely, if ever, necessary to cut or bend anything, and the better the body panels and trim items fit, the better the car will look. Everything should open and close without scraping or binding, and doors, hood, etc should close firmly without any need for slamming. Windows, especially on hardtops and convertibles, can usually be adjusted to get a good fit and smooth action without rattles and squeaks or air leaks.

I'll try to put together an explanation of what I did but as Txgoat said, I want to get it back on its wheels first.

Hoping to find a shop in Louisville next week and get someone to custom-make a drive shaft for me. I want it in place before I lower the car to the ground. Also still working a couple of items on the driver's side before the fender goes in on.

I'm sure any driveline shop should be able to make/repair and balance a drive shaft for you.

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Why do you need a custom driveshaft? There is nothing special about the 400 so you should be able to find one easily unless the car has something other than Ultramatic.

I have a 700r4.
I fell into the hype a few years back and thought it would be a good idea. I was able to get a trans for $50 and I rebuilt it myself.

I wish now that I had gone ahead and had the utramatic rebuilt but I can't do anything about it now.

I still have the original trans and after all else is done I may go ahead and get it rebuilt and keep it handy. I just hope the 700r4 last long enough to get me that far.

I got the underside of the accelerator pedal corrected today. Someone here pointed out a few weeks ago that I was missing a piece under the body. I could not locate that piece so I just made one out of some aluminum stock that I had laying around.

The fuel tank is clamped into place. I still want to attach a ground strap to the edge of it and I need to connect the fuel line.

Also, I have a local welding shop not far away from me building and balancing a drive shaft.

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Driveshaft length is critical. The slip joint must have the correct minimum degree of engagement, and it must not bottom out when the rear suspension flexes.

It's also important that the assembly be straight as well as highly balanced, and the end yokes must be "in phase"

A good driveshaft shop will be aware of all this, and probably more. A good welder may or may not be.