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There are a few differencces between the clipper and the caribbean. Some from the factory, and some changes over time.
The rear of the car is longer, but I think that is mostly because of the continental kit and the associated bumper extension. There is some extra weight way out back becasue of that. I have not had the caribbean on axle scales yet. I'l try and do that someday. With respect to extra weight and where it is...
Front: The hood weighs a ton! Honestly it feels like you are lifting a spare tire to get the hood raised. So, there is extra weight up front also.
Rear: Continental kit is out back in the carib, so extra weight is there.
Middle: The frame is strengthened for the convertible. It is pretty crazy, there is basically 3/8 (estimated) plate welded all along the middle section of the frame. They beefed it up and certainly added some weight.
The Carib has a panhard bar on the rear, which keeps the car a lot flatter.
The clipper has stock suspension, but the caribbean had the rear springs replaced with non-tapered end leaves, and the whole car sits about 2 inches higher than the clipper. -so the panhard bar, and the springs might make it sit flatter.
That being said, the clipper feels like it leans more in curves, but is more willing and able to go around corners.
Also, the clipper has cloth seats and 3 point seatbelts, and the caribbean has leather seats and no seatbelts. Take a hard left, and you wind up in the passenger seat!
They are 2 different animals.

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...and you breathed new life into them! In addition to all the other influencing factors mentioned above, the different weight naturally has an influence on the driving characteristics and the resulting driving experience. But the vehicle manufacturers are trying to compensate for this technically. If this succeeds, then a truck with compressed air brakes, even when loaded, will have a braking distance similar to that of an unloaded car. Therefore, the weight distribution should have a greater influence than the different weights.
The forces of the different steering geometries are not easily comparable. Are the performance data of the power steering pumps of both vehicles different?

Modern shocks, if available, can improve the handling of most older cars, and careful attention to tire pressure can be helpful. Wheel alignment is critical. In some cases, "soft ride" and "easy steering" alignment specs can be adjusted to improve handling.

Many cars had very low factory recommended tire pressures. Adding 2 to 4 cold PSI can improve handling in some cases.

Suspension parts, including rubber bushings, must be in good condition to get the best ride and handling. Old, weak springs can degrade ride and handling.

I've never put radial tires on an old car, but many say that substantial handling improvement can be obtained by using appropriate radial tires on 50s and earlier cars.

I tried out my wideband oxygen sensor on the clipper and went for a drive. Idle is normal or perhaps a Touch rich, but ok at Lamba 0.85 or 12.5:1 AFR. Most driving is beteen 12.5 and Stoich (14.7:1)

The car is running fine, but I was curious how well the carb is performing. When carbs are set up properly, they do a pretty good job of mixing fuel and air!

I suppose things could be leaned out a tiny bit, but maybe I should not touch a running system.

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I think most old carbureted cars need to run just slightly richer than ideal on cruise and idle, and a little richer than that at or near wide open throttle.

If the car is jetted too lean, it will be "cold natured" and performance will be off a little. Detonation may be an issue with higher compression engines. Lean running can be hard on valves.

In most localities, frequent changes in weather and variations in fuel characteristics demand that carburetors be just slightly rich.

Thanks TxGoat, I agree on carbs running on the slightly rich side compared to what it would be like with fuel Injektion. I will drive around for a day or two with this sensor installed to monitor the mixture. As long as it doesn't go way too lean or rich under normal driving conditions, I am not going to mess with anything. The carb was rebuilt by Daytona years ago, and performs well as measured from "the seat of my pants."
This is an exercise or check that the carb is working as well as it can be.

Madelyn is home again after being at my brother inlaws for two years!
I picked her up on saturday and gave her a season (near) end oil change.
I have a new favorite tool! I bought this cheap oil pump, and used it to suck the oil out of the filter canister!!! It worked very well, and was much easier than a Turkey baster, or the Hand pump that I had.
Since I have 3 cars with bypass filters, this will get used a lot.
In other news, I drove some more with the wideband O2 sensor, and think I will try fiddling with the carb. As it is, it seems a little fat at idle and low load, but leans out when I really get on it.
My plan is to lean the idle screws a little as a First step, then see if I can get Main jets that are 1 or 2 sizes up from the .089 inch jets that are Stock.

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Man, only about 5000 miles since putting this car together, and the grill is getting loose.
Well, this screw is loose. Has anybody taken apart a grill recently? I guess I should take off the radiator splasher where the hood latch goes, then go around the bottom of the grill to remove it from the car before I can get to the screw I need to tighten.

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You have to pull the entire grill off to tightening that.

Hopefully it's just loose and nothing is cracked

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Ouch, that's rough. I've never removed the grille, but I can't imagine it's quick.