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I took my 47 column out but there is another fellow working on a 40 110 with different issues. He started to work on his in the car but had a problem driving out a pin. Have not seen an update to know if he was finally able to get the pin holding the selector tongue out. You might send him a PM or also PM Joe Santana who offered a link to photos taken while doing his car and see what pointers they can offer.

Ok the upper lever is now free after overnight pb blaster and heat this am. I think I understand how everything works now…my last question is how quickly should the spring push back pin back up into the upper lever…mine does go up but very slowly…checked spring and it appears to be fine.I can manually move it up easily by shifter lever..just making sure it’s not supposed to spring back quickly

Tks

The spring assists and holds but the overall action is controlled by the operator lever being pulled back and let go. The rod and tongue is pinned together and spring pushes against the bottom so should move freely with no binding. It should require no or at best, a very minimal assist from the driver to move the gearshift lever.

There are some rubber anti vibration bushings inside the tube that support the rod. It is possible one of those or the socket assy where the operator lever meets the rod is causing a bind.

There is an exploded view illustration of the entire shift tube assy on plate 135 in the 48-54 parts book. Except for the shape of the levers the prewar assy is the same. You can also get a fairly decent view in the cutaway of the steering column a few posts above.

Ok thanks…I think I’m ok then….mine is reacting as u explained so I will grease and reassemble…see if it’s good to go…thank you for your response!

Put it all back together and adjusted rods correctly and it shifts perfectly! The best since I have had it last 30 years…still have no idea about the aero drive light on dash…it has never illuminated but does not effect anything as far as I can tell…thanks for all the help guys…what an awesome forum!

Another weak point on the earlier shifters (and maybe even on the later ones) is the pivot at the back of the steering wheel where the other in of the shaft you’re working on meets with the shift lever. The pivot is in the aluminum housing and I’ve had that seize up on my 1940s so maybe try to work some grease into it. On my everyday car at the time, a 1940 110, I finally added a bronze bushing.

Ok thank u …I will check that as well

On the AeroDrive light, that was Packards name for overdrive in the prewar years. If you have an overdrive, your year would have the R9 unit from the factory. If the overdrive knob on the under dash edge to the right of the steering column is pushed in all the way, at somewhere around 20 mph the governor will close a contact to ground bringing in a relay to prepare the system for engagement. The AeroDrive light will come on at the same time in an R9 unit. The light is a signal that OD is ready to engage so by letting your foot off the gas for a moment the unit will finish going into OD. Later R11 units which came along in 48 eliminated the light but those units were also able to be retrofitted into earlier models if an original R9 was not repairable or a customer wanted to buy the unit for its simpler operation. If one of those units was installed the light is no longer functional.

Ok I see…well I do not have an overdrive button so I assume it did not come with that option which is odd as it is a deluxe…but definitely no sign of a knob anywhere

Hello, had shifting issues with my ‘49 std 8 were the tube in the tube had rusted up. PB Blast was able to penetrate the corrosion freeing up the tubes rusted together.

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