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Replaced the OEM leaking radiator with a new aluminum radiator. Had to make two mounting brackets to accommodate the narrower width. Still working on the hose configuration and ordered some parts online from Summit Racing.

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Rich49, if you have the time please let us know what the application is for the aluminum radiator, also some idea as to the performance.

dp

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Agree. Would be very interested in knowing performance and how much if any extra capacity might be in the new aluminum vs old copper construction. If the slightly narrower radiator has enough capacity to keep the standard eight engine cool with any extra left over, with only minor changes to the new mounting flange dimensions that same radiator would probably be able to fit on the earlier regular Clipper models. Not sure it would work on the supers with the 356 though.

The new radiator is manufactured by 'Work' in some place called China. I think Walmart knows where that is. It is a two row unit designed for a 1940-41 Chevy pickup with a 216 cu.in. six. The mfg's ad on Ebay states that their aluminum radiator achieves a 30-40% improvement in heat dissipation. The OEM radiator ran at 185-190F in traffic. I'll update this post after I receive and install the hoses.

Install complete. Test drive today. At 50 mph temperature is at 180F, at stop light it indicates 190.

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Rich49, thanks for the feedback on the performance of the new radiator. As a follow-up question (or three), what was the outside air temperature, was the 50 mph run on the flat, or was there a grade, and does the thermostat have a one inch (25mm) diameter valve?

Just as an observation, if that is an Airtex fuel pump in the latest photo, we normally mount them below the fuel level as close to the tank as possible. The left frame rail has a convenient mounting hole just ahead of the rear wheel . . . plus the fuel line is right there.

dp

Those must be "new" as they weren't out there a few years ago. Even the AL customs where flat tops.
Some ugly welding? Not machine made.

If cooling becomes an issue, add a fan shroud and make sure all the front sheet metal is back on to direct the flow.
Usually, one needs extra additive with mixed metal systems, but frequent coolant change with good grade today works.

Shouldn't be too big a deal to recore an original. Fair quantity out there. I had mine done. Cost maybe same with fabrication.
There's the universal "wrinkle" hoses that take the bends better if fitment is poor. I took one over the bow by the purists when I posted mine.

Tks for the comments and suggestions. The outside temp on the test day was 79F and on flat ground.

I didn't mess with the thermostat and have no idea what the orifice diameter is. When I cut the old hose off I was pleased that the neck on the housing was not corroded and falling apart.

The 6 volt fuel pump mounting location was selected after reading other reviews covering mounting locations and pushing vs drawing fuel. I don't like crawling under cars anymore. The pump draws fuel just fine and doesn't flood the carburetor at idle. The OEM fuel/vacuum pump is still mounted with the fuel line bypassed. May pull it and rebuild same this winter.

Fabricating a fan shroud is a good idea to enhance cooling and safety while working on the engine while it is running. During the radiator installation I painted the inside tips of the fan white to make it more visible.

I didn't consider repairing the OEM radiator after talking to a friend that paid $900 to fix the one on his 48 Buick and it took six weeks.

I'll put the OEM radiator up for sale when I am satisfied that the new one is meeting my expectations.