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Thanks for all that info. I now have all those lights working with the different door jamb switches. I think I still need to wire in the map light, glove box light, and the small light on the ignition.

I got the tail light seals this week. I am a little confused. I seem to have more seals than needed. There are two that are shaped somewhat alike. One is wide and one is narrow. I know where the narrow one goes but not the thicker one that is marked in red in the image below.

Also, I think the long one that is rolle dup goes around the whole thing between the car body and the crome frame.

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Maybe it goes where the housing meets the fender? Just a guess.

I’m curious, though, about the light sockets as front ones seem to have been flared in place and are not removable. Is that not true of the rears too? I see yours are the snap-in type.

I believe Don is right. Looks like it should go on the back.

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I got a bunch of lights working. All the door jamb switches are doing their job. The headlights work but are not installed yet.
Now I can get back to finishing up the window regulators and glass installed.

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I stopped by the interior shop this morning. Starting to see some progress.

I need to disassemble all the power window switches and clean them up to make to functional again. Any tips would be appreciated. I would prefer not to screw them up and have to replace something.

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No real trick on the window switches. Use a slim diameter pin punch in the housing holes to release the end of clips holding the switch to the chrome housing. Be gentle with the clips because they seem to get brittle and some break. Others have searched for new and AFAIK, they are not repro'd so hard to come by.

Once switches are out of the housing use the punch again to push out the small round pin holding the button in the switch and once that is clear, switch will come apart. Would suggest making sure to keep the parts of a switch together. Craig found on the 4 gang drivers door assy they must have used two vendors and parts would not interchange between switches. The same issue might be with the single gang switches.

Once you have it apart look closely at the rivets on the sliding contact pieces and particularly the smaller raised side of the rivet. That small side still carries all the current the large side does and is frequently melted or burned down to the point it becomes flat -- almost part of the plastic. When that happens it cannot make a good connection with the leaf side of the contact mounted in the switch so switch fails.

Stewart, those seats are looking amazing. I can't wait to see them back in the car. One step closer!

Well, I did exactly what I was afraid of. I broke the 4-gang power windows switch. You can see it in photo1 below. Also, I inadvertently removed my finger from a spring under one of the switches and sent it flying across my shop.

In photo2 you see the original bezel that came out of this car on the right and the switch on the left was in the trunk of the car when I brought it home. When I place this mystery switch assembly into the original bezel (photo3), it fits like a glove. Also, this switch assembly fits the Packard connector on the wire harness exactly (photo4). So, I get a second chance and will try not to break this other assembly.

The pins on a typical GM switch have a different pattern. I have no idea what this one is but I guess it could also be a Packard switch as well.

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I read somewhere that some Cadillacs and possibly other GM cars in that time frame used a similar 2 wire Delco motor and switch arrangement as Packard. I do not know that for fact but if the pin terminals on the switch fits the Packard plug the mystery bezel may be from a GM brand. I believe later GM switches which have similar looking buttons but I think have 5 terminal pins are considerably different internally.

If it is a GM switch that might be the variation Craig ran across where the switch parts from two apparent vendors did not swap. Would be interesting to know if the switch as a whole is retained the same way and could swap bezels.

Test the pin outs before committing it to the car! If it’s from a car with hydraulic rather than electric windows, they are different.