Re: Safe T Flex rubber bushings.
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Home away from home
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It is pretty straight forward Bill. The arms themselves are not under that much torque, the ball and socket stop any front to back movement of the independent front suspension when loads are placed on it during turns and rough roads.
Removing the 3 screws on the ball cap where it meets the frame will free the rear socket. Pull the arm down out of the socket and clean all the old rubber ball cap rubber from the arm ball, frame socket and the cap socket. Using sandpaper or wire brush, smooth the ball, cap socket and frame socket so there are no burrs or shale that will intrude on the new bushing. Run a tap into the threads in the frame socket so they are clean and ready to accept the cap screws during reassembly. Clean the cap screws as well on a wire wheel and chase the threads with a die so they are clean and easily run into the tapped holes in the frame socket. Coat the arm ball/cap socket and frame socket with a good quality latex paint. (I suggest latex paint as it is pretty much immune to brake fluid.) Once dry, wipe the outside of the arm ball and the inside of the bushing ball cap with brake fluid, this allows easier installation of the bushing over the steel ball as well as helps remove the risk of rubber squeak when in action. Once the bushing is pressed onto the arm ball, press the cap socket over the bushing ball and, using a jack, press the cap/bushing/arm back up into the frame socket. Insert and tighten the three screws per side. Have fun! Bob J.
Posted on: 12/20 11:47
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Re: Safe T Flex rubber bushings.
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Home away from home
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I found it convenient to remove several of the small bolts holding the engine side pans to the frame, starting at the rear to allow the pans to drop down way from the ball cap. I left the front pan bolts in place. I used a scrap piece of 2X4 or 2X6 cut at an angle and driven between the radius rod and the car frame to move the radius rods down away from the ball socket about an inch. The old rubber on my car had rotted and bonded to the cap and ball and frame socket. I peeled, scraped, and finally burned the crud off, and then wire bushed the the parts clean and smooth. Be sure to get any debris out of the 2 small holes in the frame socket and the hole in the cap. I did not paint the parts, but I would recommend doing so as described above. I used Ruglyde type rubber lubricant to put the rubber on the radius rods. I then removed the wood block/wedges, and carefully moved the radius rods into place, being very careful to keep the small rubber studs in their proper places in the holes provided in the frame sockets. I put a little grease on each of the three cap bolts and installed the caps, leaving the bolts a little loose, then lowered the car to the floor and bounced it a few times, then tightened the bolts firmly and evenly and replaced the bolts in the side pans.
It made a big difference in how the car handled.
Posted on: 12/20 13:55
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Re: Safe T Flex rubber bushings.
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Forum Ambassador
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Bill,
Looks like you got your answer!
Posted on: 12/20 14:10
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Mal
/o[]o\ ==== Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia "Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche. 1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD 1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD 1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD 1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD What's this? Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry! Here's how! Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com |
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Re: Safe T Flex rubber bushings.
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Not too shy to talk
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New bushes from Steele last week, already had everything clean and ready to re-assemble. Very easy job when someone has told you how to do it with no danger of coil spring putting hands at risk. Big thanks Bob J and TxGoat much appreciated.
Posted on: 1/13 3:09
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